mammammm 


DA 390 
T75 K57 
1831 



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TROON HARBOUR. 





































/ 


TROON & DUNDONALD, 

Uitft tbm ^uwoumlings, 

* 

LOCAL AND HISTORICAL, 


BY THE 

REV. J. KIRKWOOD, 

♦ i 

T IE2, O O US'. 


THIRD EDITION, FURTHER EXTENDED. 


KILMARNOCK: 

JAMES M ‘ K I E , 2 KING STREET. 


MDCCCLXXXI. 





.T*75 KS7 

l*B3l 



} n 



CONTENTS, 

-OO^OO- 

Introduction.—Late and Present Dukes of Portland. 

Page. 

Chapter I.—Situation,. 1 

“ II.—Outlook,. 5 

“ III.—Origin,. 13 

“ IV.—Progress, . 23 

“ V.—Institutions,. 29 

“ VI.—Recreations,. 32 

“ VII.—Excursions,. 37 

“ VIII.—Fullarton,. 49 

“ IX.—Crosbie,. 64 

“ X.—Loans,. 72 

“ XI.-—Dundonald Hill,. 77 

“ XII.—Dundonald Village,. 90 

“ XIII.—Dundonald Castle,.100 

“ XIV.—Auchans,.122 

“ XV.—Hillhouse and Barassie.131 

“ XVI.—The Glen, 


139 
























INTRODUCTION. 


LATE AND PRESENT DUKES OF PORTLAND. 


In the second edition of this little work there was an 
intimation, appearing on the title page, that it was revised 
and extended. The new matter referred to consisted of 
some thirty or forty pages incorporated in various parts of 
the volume. In the present issue it has not been thought 
needful to make any important additions. Only a few 
paragraphs have been added in connection with the last four 
chapters. But we gladly take this opportunity of acknow¬ 
ledging those friends who aided us with valuable informa¬ 
tion ; and may we also add an expression of our pleasing 
surprise at the unexpected demand for the book by the 
public, and the very kindly notices of it by the Press ? We 
are not aware of any corrections in regard to matters of 
fact called for, either by these notices or by further con- 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


sideration, unless it may be to give more weight than we 
have done to the claims of Crosbie in West Kilbride, as the 
scene referred to by Blind Harry. 

Troon has lately fallen into the hands of a new proprietor. 
The Duke of Portland died on the 6th December, 1879, 
and his heir, as mentioned in the body of the work, was 
Major-General Bentinck, late 7th Dragoon Guards, now the 
sixth Duke of Portland. Much has been said about the 
eccentricities of the late Duke, as it is almost entirely 

through these that he is generally known. Except 

for a short time when he sat in the House of Com¬ 
mons as member for Lynn, about sixty years ago, he 
has spent the most of his life in isolation from the 

outside world. He resided chiefly at Welbeck, where 

he cut numerous subterranean passages, that, unseen, he 
might reach the more distant parts of his extensive estates 
and especially thus visit his stables, whose steeds were great 
favourites with him. He had a subterranean Church, a 
subterranean Library, and of the fifty Lodges in, or rather 
under his grounds, all the apartments were subterranean 
except the dining-rooms and bed-rooms. These passages, 
with their buried architectural gems which many of the 
buildings there truly were, could at any time be brilliantly 
lighted up with gas. There is a right of way for a mile and 
a-half through his estates which the Duke completely 
covered, lest, when he walked above ground, he might be 
accidentally seen by passers by. Any of his servants giving 


INTRODUCTION. 


VII 


signs of recognising him were dismissed. If visitors were 
invited to the Abbey they feasted without their host. In 
travelling by railway, his Grace sat all the way in his own 
carriage—a close one—which was placed on a truck. In 
his house at Cavendish Square, within a court with dead walls 
fronting the street, he was equally concealed. His mode 
of life was most inexpensive, and at his funeral, by his own 
orders, there was only a hearse and one mourning coach. 
Yet his money was not shut up. He was an extensive 
employer of labour, and for work done on his estates he long 
paid upwards of £1000 per week for wages alone. He was 
also gifted with both taste and talent, and his knowledge of 
business and attention to his own affairs were manifest in 
his correspondence with those immediately under him. In 
the Royal Academy’s Exhibition this summer there is a 
bust of the late Duke, which represents him with well 
defined and pleasing features. In his general appearance he 
was tall and slender. 

The young Duke is in his twenty-third year. Though 
some of the property of his wealthy kinsman has passed 
into other hands, he has entered on vast possessions both in 
England and Scotland, and Troon is his. He was a great 
favourite in the army, and he has already begun to shew a 
kindly interest in his tenantry. There was a considerable 
reduction made in the rents paid by most of his farmers 
last year. It has just been intimated that the dues at the 
Harbour will be reduced fifty per cent, and other facilities 


Vlll 


INTRODUCTION. 


granted for shipping. Fens, which were withheld for about 
sixteen years, are now being obtained. His Grace has also 
shewn his willingness to please by becoming an honorary 
member of the Troon Golfing Club, and he has presented a 
beautiful gold medal for competition by the Club. All this 
is most cordially welcomed, and not the less so after three 
or four years of depression of trade which has told with 
special severity on Troon. May there be a rich realization 
of early promise, and it will be a joy to another generation, 
as well as to this, if the ripe age of the two predecessors in 
the Dukedom be reached or exceeded by the Sixth Duke of 
Portland. 


TROON, 


CHAPTER I. 

THE SITUATION. 

We have often been asked, “What is the meaning of the 
word Troon?” and, “Why do your country neighbours 
persist in calling it the Troon % ” The first satisfactory 
information we had on the subject was from two Gaelic 
scholars, with whom we were spending a day amidst the 
lovely scenes of Glen Lyon. We were told that ‘ Strone ’ 
meant a nose or bill; but when the definite article was put 
to it the ‘ s ’ was dropped, and it became ‘ an Trone,’ * 
or the bill. 

A glance at our situation will shew how aptly this 
describes the general appearance of the Promontory. It 
closely resembles the beak of a bird, lying on its side, with 
the hook turned northwards. And it is probably called 
the bill because of its extent; stretching as it does for fully 
a mile into the sea. If the extent, however, does not of 
itself seem sufficient to warrant the use of the definite article, 
it at least does so in comparison with the neighbouring 


* In charters dated as early as 1344 the spelling is Trone. 

A 




SITUATION OF TROON. 


Black Rock. That Rock also resembles a nasal organ; but, 
besides being more diminutive, it has the misfortune of being 
broken at the bridge, so that every rising tide separates it 
from the other features of the country. This latter calamity 
was not altogether unknown to the Troon itself. We have 
heard the late Dr. MTTerrow say, that, once preaching in 
the old rope work, then situated near our bridge, when the 
services were finished and the blessing pronounced, he was 
surprised to see the people only look out, not one venturing 
to move. He was uncertain whether or not it was the 
attraction from within that kept them, till it became evident 
that it was necessity from without. The entire building 
was surrounded by the sea. He wisely thought of improving 
the occasion by commencing a second discourse. In the 
middle of it he saw one step out, but, like the raven from 
the ark, he had evidently to wander to and fro ; for another 
who followed, finding no rest for the sole of her foot, like 
the clove, returned. Before the discourse was finished the 
waters had abated, an abrupt conclusion was come to, and 
the congregation dismissed. Some fifteen years ago, also, 
the waters of the North and South Sands met, entirely 
isolating the peninsula, and so filling the lower part of 
Portland Street that, during the height of the tide, it 
resembled a Dutch canal. 

Such inundations have not been heard of since, and we 
have reason to hope never will. The raising of the bank, in 
front of Portland Terrace, by ballast from the ships, has 


A SCATTERED POPULATION. 


3 


effectually shut out the wild Atlantic tide. By the same 
means the fine green sward extending from the Terrace to 
the offices at the Harbour, and the entire mass of the wedge- 
shaped height known as the Ballast Bank, have been formed. 
For some years back the ballast has been discharged into 
the sea a little beyond Barassie. 

The town of Troon sweeps in a graceful curve from the 
central height of the peninsula across the isthmus, and 
stretches for a considerable extent along the South Beach. 
It has, besides, branches and outposts in various directions. 
Hence it sadly lacks the qualification of being “ compactly 
built together. ” The streets are nearly all one-sided, and 
are spread out, like a pinned spider, over a very wide area. 
Kilmarnock, from Gallows Knowe to Biccarton Church, or 
Ayr, from the northern extremity of Newton to the Eace 
Course, could either of them be accommodated between our 
Harbour Stores and the last cottage on the South Beach ; 
while our population is only 2,631. But, as a scattered 
village, we have compensating advantages. We are thus 
able to receive several hundred, it may be a thousand, 
visitors, without the cry of overcrowding in our streets. 
We have also our Harbour and Beach, the respective scenes 
of business and pleasure, fully a mile apart. And we have 
secured an important condition for health; since, according 
to the Begistrar General, “ It has been ascertained that the 
mortality of a district held a tolerably constant proportion 
to the state of crowding of its inhabitants.” 


4 


SITUATION OF TROON. 


Other causes combine to promote the healthiness of the 
district. The sandy soil drinks in the rain-fall; the sun and 
wind, unimpeded by wood or mountain-shade, assist in 
drying it up; while no river, with its vapoury or worse 
exhalations, lingers near us. We have thus the driest 
atmosphere and soil of any town on the West Coast. When 
Glasgow, and other towns on the banks of rivers, are buried 
in their dismal fogs, and have their sites discovered only by 
the mists that hover over them, Troon is generally smiling 
in calm bright sunshine. We have also the sea in its 
greatest purity, with its life-giving ozone, not only before 
but all around us. No doubt the very strength and purity 
of the air is unfavourable to feeble and far-gone consumptive 
patients : and it is well here to have average lungs to begin 
with. But those frames which are wearied and worn with 
toil will find wonderful refreshment and strength on our 
shores. Nor can there be a better place for the members of 
young and growing families to lay the foundation of 
vigorous constitutions; at the same time that their enjoyment 
along the broad beach and sandy knowes, and among the 
endless crevices of the rocks, may be unbounded. As good 
a certificate, on the point of healthiness, as could be desired, 
is found in the fact that medical men of the highest 
standing—including professors from our Universities—take 
summer quarters here in more than the usual proportions. 


TROON. 


CHAPTER II. 

THE OUTLOOK. 

From its situation, Troon is generally considered flat and 
tame—altogether destitute of the picturesque. Those who 
sweep past it by rail, very naturally, and no doubt honestly, 
declare this. And those who spend in it only a day or two, 
which may happen to be dull and stormy, give the same 
verdict. But, with the clear and bracing atmosphere with 
which we are not unfrequently favoured, if the view of 
Troon may still, to a passer by, seem somewhat tame, it 
will be found widely different with the view from it. On 
account of our projecting so far into the sea, and our un¬ 
broken prospect landward, we are “ as a city set upon an 
hill.” We have sometimes, indeed, to encounter the fierce 
unmitigated blasts as on a mountain top; but we may enjoy 
a glorious sight as from the same. We can look upon a scene 
in extent seldom equalled, and, with features both of beauty 
and variety, well fitted to give unwearied interest. 

To prove this, and enable the stranger to identify the 
various objects in view, let us survey our surroundings 
somewhat in detail. We take our stand on the Ballast 



6 


OUTLOOK FROM TROON. 


Bank—not very shapely in itself nor poetic in its designation, 
but which, with a little labour, might be made as attractive 
as the famous Hoe at Plymouth. Looking Westward, we 
find the sky beautifully broken by the most picturesque of 
mountain ranges. Viewed from any point, Arran is a noble 
sight, but from Troon we have it full in front. We have it 
also at such a distance as enables the eye to take it in at a 
glance, and yet sufficiently near to allow us to distinguish 
every feature. With the clear light of early morning we 
may look into the rocky sides of Glen Sannox, or the wooded 
opening of Glen Rosa; detecting occasionally, over the dark 
pines, the red-tinted battlements of Brodick Castle. The 
graceful order of the peaks, as they are seen from this point 
gently rising up to Goat Fell, will be universally acknowledged 
a model of the beautiful, if not of the grand, in Alpine 
scenery. 

To the north, beyond the Cock of Arran, you look up 
Loch Fyne; the Cantire and Cowal coasts appearing as a 
low strip in the blue distance. There is a portion of Bute 
at the extremity of this line, standing out as three prominent 
knolls : the nearest is the Garroch Head. The Little 
Cumbrae is seen as if it were part of the same range; but 
may be distinguished by a dot like a pin head on the top- - 
the remains of the old lighthouse. Apparently at the base 
of the Little Cumbrae is Ardrossan; its harbour at this dis¬ 
tance looking like a rather exhausted tooth-brush. The 
handsome cottages on the Ardrossan and Saltcoats road are 


ARRAN, BUTE, ARDROSSAN, IRVINE. 7 

frequently seen smiling in the mid-day sun. Saltcoats itself 
is not hid; though, with the exception of the rugged outline 
ot its salt pans, the unassuming and sombre character of its 
houses give it less relief. The situations of Stevenston, 
Ardeer, and Kilwinning—next in order along the bay—are 
discovered, through the masts in the harbour, mainly by the 
smoke proceeding from their iron furnaces, or by their 
blazing carbon at night. The hills behind these, studded by 
numerous homesteads, and girt, as it were, by that brown 
belt of sand so golden in the sunset, though not striking, 
are pleasing. Irvine, from its three pointed spires, and its 
chimney stalks which have been growing like mushrooms 
in its suburb of Fullarton, cannot be mistaken. And just 
above these spires, in the extreme distance, with its head 
peering modestly above the intervening plain, is the most 
famous of Scottish mountains, Ben Lomond. 

Looking nearer home, we see our companion in the sea¬ 
bathing line, Barassie, stretching its full length on the sands. 
And what a fine background to Troon, from this point, is 
the graceful Dundonald range—so prominent a feature in the 
landscape ! How abruptly it rises from the plain, sweeping 
along in these three wave-like masses, increasing in volume 
as they roll, and, sinking to the south, seems to propagate 
itself in gentle undulations like the ground swell after a 
storm ! How sweetly the village of Loans nestles at its 
base, guarded by Hillhouse and Collenan on the one hand, 
and Crossburn, close by its side, on the other ! Nearer still, 


8 


OUTLOOK FROM TROON; 


and apparently just over the South Beach cottages, are the 
winding woods of Fullarton. With their noble pines, and 
the dignified but unassuming mansion house in their midst, 
they give something of an aristocratic air to the neighbour¬ 
hood. Above these woods, though some miles beyond them, 
a blunt point appears rising out of a little tuft of trees. 
This is the top of Wallace Tower at Barnweill. It is erected 
on the spot where the patriot is said to have stood, after 
having set fire to the building in which the English were 
garrisoned, and remarked, “ The barns o’ Ayr burn weel.” 
Beyond this the Cumnock and Dalmellington hills bound 
the view. On the shore, the bright new cottages of the 
rising burgh of Prestwick stand out conspicuously; the 
houses of Monkton being almost entirely hid behind the 
sand knowes and the corner of the wood. The massive 
tower of the church of the United Parishes rises lone and 
solemn between the two villages, as if with a claim of right 
to both. 

These, however, are but the scattered outposts, pointing 
the way to the great capital of the county—Auld Ayr— 
seeking shelter at the point where the clustering hills, both 
landward and seaward, seem to meet. From amidst her 
compact dwellings, the noble spire of her Town Hall is seen 
to rise sharp and high. That dark line, stretching from the 
town into the sea, is the breakwater; meant to assist in 
keeping open the bar, whose ‘roaring,’ as the sea broke upon 
it, was long, and we suppose is still, a famous figure fre- 


BENLOMOND, DUNDONALD HILL, PRESTWICK, AYR. 9 

quently employed in the West to describe the continued cry 
of babyhood. The shipping, which creeps behind the break¬ 
water into the heart of the town, makes little appearance 
from our present position; but vessels outside, as they come 
and go, help to enliven the scene. 

Immediately beyond Ayr, are seen, though faintly, the 
green woods on the “ banks and braes o’ bonnie Doon.” 
A sharp eye may detect, peering out of the woods, the top of 
Burns’s Monument. The picturesque and poetic attractions 
around it hide themselves from distant view, and are 
revealed only on a close inspection—which none will fail to 
give. Brown Carrick Hill gradually swells from beyond 
Ayr, and then gently sinks to the sea line; forming a noble, 
elongated, symmetrical mass. Those dark cliffs, about half¬ 
way along the hill side, are the famous Heads of Ayr. On 
a less conspicuous cliff, a little nearer the town, are the 
ruins of Greenan Castle; its grim walls, though distant, 
distinctly relieved on the green slopes beyond. In exceptional 
circumstances, with the eye, but ordinarily with a glass, at 
the extremity of Carrick Hill, you may look into the antique 
village of Dunure, and on its castle—memorable for its Abbot 
roasting—a favourite subject for the artist. Turnberry, 
the ancestral home of Robert the Bruce, stands out far into 
the sea, and generally terminates your view of the land in 
that direction. The rugged appearance of the promontory 
is due mainly to the ruins of the castle. The romance of 
the spot, around which Scott in his “Lord of the Isles” has 


10 


OUTLOOK FROM TROON. 


thrown such a charm, is, perhaps, somewhat marred by the 
lighthouse erected amidst the ruins in 1873. But this light 
may, at least, remind you of the misleading fire that once 
blazed there, and virtually led the exiled king, through 
great hardships, to the achievement of Scotland’s liberties, 
when, 

‘ ‘ On that ruddy Beacon light 
Each steersman kept the helm aright.” 

The significant wink of Turnberry, in contrast with the 
steady eye of Pladda on the other side of that “azure brow,” 
is sure to attract your attention after dark. 

Between Turnberry and Pladda, the horizon is broken 
midway by the precipitous cliffs of Ailsa Craig. There it 
stands, like a Highlandman’s glengarry dropped in mid¬ 
ocean, and visible for three or four-score miles, to welcome 
the many thousand vessels seeking their way to the Clyde. 
In certain states of the atmosphere, it looks remarkably near. 
We remember the late J. de Liefde, the well-known Dutch 
writer, on a lovely summer evening, earnestly saying, 
“ Could we get one of de little boats and sail over to dat 
island ? ” “ How far do you think it is from this 'l ” we 

remarked. “0! is it more than tree mile?” “That other 
island,” we replied, pointing to the Lady Isle, “is three miles 
off; but the Craig is exactly as far in one direction from us 
as Glasgow is in the other.” His astonishment was extreme; 
and we could well understand his mistake when we stood 
on the shores of his native Zuider Zee, and observed how 


CAKKICK HILL, TURNBERRY, AILS A. 


11 


circumscribed was the view, and liow the low-land dipped 
under the horizon at a distance not much greater than the 
Lady Isle is from this. 

Referring to our horizon reminds us that the young may 
be interested in the indications of the dip, which may be 
seen here as it cannot be by those only familiar with the 
higher reaches of the Clyde. Applying a glass to the open 
sea on either side of the Craig, or to the Arran shore, you 
may discover some sail, which will be seen as literally only 
a sail, the hull being entirely cut off by the sea line. Or 
you may try this other experiment. On the Beach at night, 
when the tide is pretty well up, and Pladda is burning like a 
star on the blue waters, walk down towards the lip of the 
sea, with your eye steadily on the light, and you will find, 
at a certain step, that it suddenly and completely disappears. 
Retrace that step, and the light at once starts up with 
undiminished brightness. The same may be tried with 
Turnberry. In this way you may not only find the lesson 
of your childhood, by which it was sought to prove that the 
earth is round, tested, but if you have a mathematical turn 
of mind, you may be furnished with data for several 
interesting calculations, extending even to the discovery 
(post tempore) of the entire circumference of the earth ! 

But we are being tempted to wander from our descrip¬ 
tion : yet not till we have completed our survey from 
Troon point. We have entered pretty fully into details, and 
need not now pause to find superlatives in its praise. To 


12 


OUTLOOK FROM TROON. 


all who have eyes and intellects, with fair weather, to look 
on it, the scene speaks for itself. We will only say that 
you may travel far and see nothing half so fair. Nor is the 
effect of the wildest storm a drawback. The sweep of forty 
or fifty miles of unbroken swell from the north-west, or of 
seventy or eighty from the south-west, as it breaks and 
surges on the rocks beneath you, is something truly grand, 
and sure to call forth the enthusiastic admiration of all who 
“ love torn ocean’s roar.” 


TROON. 


CHAPTER III. 

THE ORIGIN. 

Till within the last seventy years, the name Troon applied 
rather to the Peninsula than to any existing village. It 
was only “the top of a rock, a place to spread nets upon.” 
The two or three tiled houses still existing at the foot of 
the railway embankment opposite the Free Church, with 
the Pans, and the large house at the Gas Works, formed all 
that deserved the name of village. The last of these was 
long used as a kind of inn for strollers, smugglers, &c.—the 
principal scene of Mr. Lockhart’s little tale, “A Night at 
Troon in 1746.” The pans continued to be used to supply the 
country with salt till within a recent period. The purchasing 
of this necessity there, and such an accident as the falling of 
a workman into the boiling caldron and perishing, are matters 
within the memory of some of the “ older inhabitants.” 

With the exception of these few earlier dwellings—de¬ 
pending on this humble salt work, with the addition of a 
little fishing and much smuggling—Troon may be said to 
owe its existence almost entirely to the late Duke of Portland. 
Everywhere may be seen on it, conspicuously and un- 
mistakeably, the stamp of its noble founder. We are 



u 


ORIGIN OF TROON. 


made familiar with his name and its associations at every 
turn. We have Portland Street, Portland Terrace, Port¬ 
land Villa, the Portland Arms, and, till lately, the Portland 
Shipbuilding Company : also Titchfield Row—after the Mar¬ 
quis of Titclifield, eldest son of the Duke; and Welbeck Cres¬ 
cent—after the Duke’s seat and estates in Nottinghamshire. 

The name Temple Hill takes us back to the days of the 
Fullertons—the previous and ancient proprietors of the 
soil. There was an erection bv that family, not far from 
the present Union Bank, called “The Temple,”—a kind of 
“round tower,” used as an observatory, or more frequently 
as a private resting place and luncheon room. It was nick¬ 
named by the people “Fullerton’s Folly,” or simply “The 
Foil y.” For a time the hill was known from this as Folly 
Hill; but latterly, when a street was formed, the present 
more dignified name was adopted. 

But there is another street whose name takes us even 
further back than the days of the Fullertons. We refer to 
the direct road from the Railway to the South Beach. It is 
called St. Meddans, probably a corruption of St. Meddinus, 
or St. Mirrens, who was a Romish Bishop or Confessor. 
There is a chapel dedicated to this saint in the Abbey of 
Paisley, which, without much stretch of the imagination, 
we can link to this neigbourhood. Walter Fitz Alan—the 
first High Steward of Scotland, and founder of that Abbey 
and Chapel in 1163—was one of the earliest proprietors of the 
soil around Troon. The Abbey was the burying ground of the 


15 


NATURAL HARBOUR. 

family for upwards of 200 years, till they reached the throne; 
and Marjory Bruce, mother of Robert II., first Stewart 
King, was laid in the sounding Aisle of St. Mirrens. If it 
had not been done by his ancestors long before, what more 
natural than that Robert, whose connection with this district, 
as we shall afterwards find, was specially close, should seek 
to give to some portion of it a name so sacred to him. This 
would be all the more likely if a burying-place, or shrine, had 
been consecrated here. And that there was something of 
the kind seems probable, as near the thatched cottages 
called St. Med dans, at the head of the street that bears their 
name, were discovered, within a comparatively recent period, 
human remains, evidently of very ancient origin. 

But whatever connection this saint may have had nominally 
with the neighbourhood, the late Duke of Portland is the 
virtual patron saint of Troon, and deserves to be canonized, 
as to a large extent he is, on the corner of every street. Of 
him, and of the proprietors who preceded him, we have 
something to say when we visit their residence at Fullerton. 
Meanwhile, let us look at the grand memorial of his enter¬ 
prise and public spirit—the Harbour —the beginning and 
main source of the prosperity of Troon. 

The point of the promontory, where the Harbour now stands, 
always presented great advantages for shipping purposes. 
The rock, extending along the entire line of the present 
docks, before it was touched by art, could be approached by 
large merchant vessels so near as to enable the crew to land 


16 


ORIGIN OF TROON. 


by a plank. Within this rock, sheltered from nearly every 
wind, with ten feet of water at lowest ebb tides, there was 
ample space for a whole fleet. Many a smuggler was 
familiar with this canny creek. Dutch luggers often crept 
into it; whilst Highland wherries might gain their purpose 
at Port Ronald. 

These advantages were early envied by the rising capital 
of the West. In the dawn of her commercial enterprise, 
when she was compelled to be content with the use of ports 
in the power of others, Glasgow cast an evil eye at Troon. 
She hoped by purchasing this rock-bound bay to open up 
for herself a path to the wealth of ocean. This was at 
a period when her river, between Dumbarton and the city, 
could only float a few smacks; and when what is now Port 
Glasgow, was known only as ‘Devol’s Glen/ and had not 
been even thought of as a convenient opening seaward. 
The present site of Troon, which seemed so promising for 
her purpose, was applied for, but a serious obstacle was 
thrown in the w T ay by the Fullerton of those days. He 
refused, because he thought such a work “ would have the 
effect of raising the price of butter and eggs, which he might 
have occasion to use in his family!! ” Some of his successors, 
however, had more public spirit and real appreciation of 
their own interests. One of them obtained a charter from 
Queen Anne, dated Windsor Castle, August 5th, 1707, 
(exactly a hundred years before anything was actually done,) 
“ constituting the Port of Troon a free seaport and harbour 


HARBOUR FORMED BY THE DUKE OF PORTLAND. IT 


with power to lift anchorage and other customs.” And 
another—the last of the Fullartons, the late Colonel—did 
all in his power to realise for himself the vision suggested 
by the Glasgow merchants. He formed excellent plans, 
including that of a canal from Kilmarnock to Troon. 
Application was made to Parliament to sanction his schemes, 
when—fatal obstacle—means failed him. 

It was reserved for the late Duke of Portland to carry 
into execution an enterprise which had seemed so tempting 
to others; and his ample resources enabled him to do so on 
a large scale. The work was commenced by His Grace in 
1808—only three years after the property had come into his 
hands. The first operation was the construction of a pier, 
extending into the sea about 500 feet from the rock which 
had formed the natural harbour. The depth at the point 
of the pier was sixteen feet at lowest ebb tides, and at full 
tide a line-of-battle ship might enter. A large Floating 
Basin and two Graving Docks were next constructed. These 
were cut out of the native rock—well-knit trap —so that they 
will require little or no repair from century to century. In the 
floating basin there was provided about 900 feet of quayage, 
where vessels drawing twenty feet of water can float at all 
tides, and can also enter or leave at pleasure, as there are no 
gates. The principal graving dock was, till within the last 
twenty years, the most extensive on the Ctyde, and Glasgow 
had to send her largest ships to be repaired here. 

Immediately after the formation of the Graving Docks, 

B 


13 


ORIGIN OF TROON. 


there was raised, at some distance opposite them, an arti¬ 
ficial island, about the length of two ordinary vessels. Its 
purpose was, by means of pillars fixed on it, to assist 
vessels turning into or towing out of the Docks. Being 
in a kind of intermediate passage, this island was humorously 
designated by the sailors, St. Helena; and the refractory on 
shore were often threatened with it as a place of punish¬ 
ment—allusions which would be specially relished as 
originating at the time when the Rock which bears that 
name in the South Atlantic had just become famous as 
the appointed scene of Napoleon’s exile. 

Aiton, whose volume on Ayrshire was written when the 
work was at this stage, says, “No harbour in Great Britain 
is of more easy access, or communicates more readily with 
the ocean, than Troon. A hundred vessels may come 
abreast round the pier head. Whenever a vessel clears 
the pier head she is in open sea, and may stretch to the 
right or left for some miles without meeting with the least 
obstruction or danger, so that the harbour can be entered 
upon or departed from with ease, whatever may be the 
direction of the wind.” The only qualification to this state¬ 
ment, from recent improvements, is regarding the number 
of vessels that may enter abreast. It was found that being 
open toward the shore was an evil. During a violent storm 
in January, 1839, about twenty vessels were driven from 
their moorings and stranded on the North Sands. Some 
very happy matrimonial ties can still be traced in Troon, 


EXTENT OF HARBOUR. 


19 


the result of that “ill wind.” But the maritime calamity 
made it desirable to erect a Breakwater; which was accom¬ 
plished mainly by uniting “ St. Helena ” with the shore, 
and extending it a little seaward till it came opposite the 
pier head. This considerably narrowed the entrance into the 
harbour. It has, however, proportionally increased the safety 
of those who get in; and the entrance is still wide enough 
for easy access. The breakwater has given about 1700 feet 
of additional quayage ; though, as yet, only a portion of it 
has been made available for shipping purposes. It is in all, 
about 3000 feet in length, so that, if placed on end, it would 
be fully higher than Goat Fell! Passengers arriving by the 
Glasgow steamboats, as they must come this way, have a 
salutary impression of the extent of this work. 

The total quayage at present in constant use over the 
whole works is about 5300 feet, fully a mile. If we 
include the wall opposite the shipyard—about 350 feet—to 
wdiich vessels moor stern on, but seldom alongside; and the 
quayage of the Graving Docks—about 1200 feet—-the total 
quayage would be fully a mile and a quarter. The Inner 
Harbour, however, now partially dry at low tides, and used 
only for winter quarters and for storing timber, could easily 
be deepened and made available for large ships, giving addi¬ 
tional quayage of above 3700 feet; thus making a grand 
total of, as near as possible, two miles. The day when this 
may be accomplished, as it is often already to some extent 
needed, may not be far distant. 


20 


ORIGIN OF TROON. 


The expense of the entire undertaking at the harbour, as 
it at present stands, it would be difficult to estimate. 
£100,000 were expended in the earlier stages, and costly 
improvements and extensions have frequently been made 
since. It must have cost in all considerably more than 
half a million. 

In considering the origin of Troon we must not overlook 
the Railway; in itself historically interesting, and essen¬ 
tially connected with our prosperity. The harbour, being 
at a considerable distance from the great Coal Fields of 
Ayrshire, many of which were the Duke of Portland’s 
property, would have been a work comparatively wasted 
unless united to these fields by some easy means of transit. 
To furnish this link was therefore part of the Duke’s plan 
from the first. The canal idea was not resumed, as the rage 
for this mode of conveyance had, by this time, somewhat 
abated. Tramroads, which were gradually transformed 
into Railways, with waggons drawn by horses, had just 
eome into vogue; and this method, almost entirely new in 
the North, was adopted.* Aiton, in his volume published 

* The Act authorising this undertaking was entitled £ ‘ An Act for 
making a Railway from or near the town of Kilmarnock, in the 
County of Ayr, to a place called the Troon, in the said County.” 
48 Geo. III., 1808. The present shareholders are the Duke of 
Portland, the Lady H. M. Bentinck, the Earl of Eglinton and 
Winton, and Captain Boyle, R.N., of Shewalton, or their heirs ; 
the Railway Company being merely leaseholders. The Act authoris¬ 
ing the construction of the Harbour became law at the same time, 
but, probably taking into account its previous natural advantages, 
the title was “ An Act for the Improvement of the Harbour of 
Troon, situated on the West Coast of the County of Ayr.” 



FIRST LOCOMOTIVE IN SCOTLAND. 


21 


at the time, says, “ A Railway of a magnitude unequalled in 
Scotland is now forming (1811) and nearly finished, between 
the towns of Kilmarnock and Troon.” Soon after its 
completion Stephenson’s great invention appeared, and his 
Grace had the enterprise and honour of encouraging the 
pioneer of modern locomotion, by making the first purchase of 
an iron horse. This, the first of its kind ever seen in Scot¬ 
land, as it snorted along the line, was described by the 
country folk as “the horse that fed on coals instead of 
corn.” We must give the account of this experiment, now 
become a matter of general history, in the words of Mr. 
Smiles, from the third volume of his “ Lives of the Engineers .” 
—“At Killingworth, without the aid of a farthing of 
government money, a system of road locomotion had been 
in existence since 1814, which was destined to revolutionise 
the internal communications of England and the world, but 
of which the English public and the English government 
knew nothing. * * * The first engine constructed by 

Mr. Stephenson to order, after the Killingworth model, was 
made for the Duke of Portland in 1817, for use upon the 
tramroads, about ten miles long, extending from Kilmarnock 
to Troon Harbour. Its use was, however, discontinued in 
consequence of the frequent breakages of the cast-iron rails, 
by which the working of the line was interrupted, and 
accordingly horses were again employed as before.” In a 
note, Mr Smiles adds, “ The iron wheels of this engine were 
afterwards removed and replaced with wooden wheels, when 


22 


ORIGIN OF TROON. 


it was again placed upon the road and continued working 
until 1848.* Its original cost was £750. It was broken 
up and the materials were sold, realizing only £13.” What 
a fine nucleus for a Troon Museum had it been preserved! 

The Railway was early used as a passenger line, wrought 
by horses. Some of our senior Kilmarnock cousins can still 
remember trotting down on it to the “ saut water,” by the 
“ Caledonias.” These bore a striking resemblance to the 
modern tramway car, but had more dash if less dignity about 
them; approaching rather the iron horse in their speed. 
They continued for a good while after steam was introduced. 

The old line was leased for a limited (?) period—999 
years—from the late Duke of Portland, by the Glasgow and 
South Western Railway Company in 1845, at a sum per 
annum, with a small rate per mile on the coal carried from 
the then existing collieries. The Railway has since been 
extended to his Grace’s collieries beyond Kilmarnock, the 
Company receiving all the dues for the extended part. The 
Harbour, however, is still the exclusive property of his heirs. 
It is at present under the superintendence of James Wood, 
Esq., whose official residence is Portland Villa. 


* In this date Mr. Smiles is undoubtedly wrong, as several, long 
familiar with the district, remember seeing the engine in Gargieston 
Shed (near Kilmarnock) lying as lumber many years previous 
to 1848. 



TROON. 


CHAPTER IV. 

PROGRESS. 

The village grew from the Harbour like a vine from its 
roots—summer visitors, like summer breezes, furnishing a 
healthful stimulus. For the last ten years, indeed, the 
tendrils have been prevented from spreading: but the roots 
have been striking deeper. At the Harbour—the source of 
all our prosperity—great improvements have, from time to 
time, been made, business has continued steadily to increase, 
and is at present in a most flourishing condition. Though 
the most recently founded port in the county, (Ardrossan 
having had its foundation laid first, but long remaining 
unfinished) it has far outstripped all its Ayrshire competitors. 
Till 1863, it was merely a creek under the ancient port of 
Irvine. Now, Irvine is a creek under Troon. 

The following is the legal title to our extended powers:— 
“ The limits of the Port shall commence at New Burn, being 
the northern boundary of the Port of Ayr, and continue 
along the coast in a northerly direction to a place called 
Stevenston Burn, being the southern boundary of the Port 
of Ardrossan, and shall include the island called Lady Isle, 



24 


PROGRESS OF TROON. 


and all Harbours, Rivers, Creeks, and Bays within the said 
limits, and shall extend sea-ward from the mainland and 
coast of the said island to a distance of 3 miles from low 
water mark.” The New Burn, above referred to, is old 
enough now, having been long extinct—probably diverted 
into that which crosses St. Meddans and enters the sea at 
the Pans. But it formerly flowed into the sea at the South 
Beach; and a stone on the Promenade behind the Cottages, 
with the inscription, “ Northern Boundary of the Port of 
Ayr,” still marks the spot. 

It will thus be seen that the Port of Ayr, unlike that of 
its ancient competitor Irvine, has not been compelled to 
yield to the authority of this modern rival, but is still free, 
and even continues territorially to encroach on our borders. 
Commercially, however, it is a good way behind us: though 
the cutting of a new dock and the returns for the last two 
or three years show that it is taking a fresh and vigorous 
start. Ardrossan, hitherto our most successful competitor, 
must also be content to rank after us. It does not seem to 
yield to its noble proprietor one half of what Troon yields 
to hers. From a government Blue Book for 1873 we learn 
that the Duke of Portland derives £10,708 annually from 
the Harbour of Troon, while the Earl of Eglinton derives 
only £4,525 from that of Ardrossan. These sums, however, 
it must be remembered, only represent the comparative, not 
the actual value of the two Ports. What deductions may 
be made from the entire revenue, for working expenses or 


SHIPPING AND SHIPBUILDING. 


25 


for the purposes of government assessment, we have not the 
means of knowing. 

All modern improvements for facilitating the trade of a 
harbour have been adopted by the present Duke. “ He has 
erected 15 steam and other loading machines. Some of 
these are capable of loading singly 1000 tons of coal daily, 
so that vessels of 800 or 1000 tons burden can arrive the 
one day and sail the next. At present over half a million 
tons of coal are carried here by rail and shipped annually. 
Two steam tugs are kept to tow vessels in and out of the 
harbour.” There is also a Lighthouse, which, unlike those 
on the coast generally, is private property, and supported 
by the revenue of the Port. It is extinguished every five 
minutes. 

The following Keturns for the five years ending 31st 
December, 1875, have been kindly prepared for us by the 
Collector of Her Majesty’s Customs :— 



Inwards with Cargoes. 

Outwards with Cargoes. 


'e 

Years. 

Foreign 

Trade. 

Coasting 

Trade. 

Foreign 

Trade. 

Coasting 

Trade. 

Duties 
Receive < 

S ft; 

JA 


Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

^ s 

1871 

27 

9558 

121 

7866 

331 

122483 

3229 

286929 

£ 

9535 

£ 

2328 

1872 

28 

9802 

101 

5501 

367 

120911 

2929 

264269 

7494 

2171 

1873 

57 

20214 

544 

51804 

356 

120373 

3013 

270710 

9253 

2384 

1874 

58 

19342 

534 

57917 

359 

130580 

2136 

200792 

8324 

2280 

1875 

61 

23114 

713 

86406 

365 

130519 

2459 

261630 ' 

I 

11144 

2133 




































26 


PROGRESS OF TROON. 


“ The foregoing Table shows a very satisfactory increase 
in the trade of the Port in 1875 as compared with that of 
the previous year. In the Foreign and Coasting Trades 
Inwards we have an increase of 3 ships, 3772 tons; and 179 
ships, 28,489 tons respectively; and in the Coasting Trades 
Outwards we have an increase of 323 ships, 60,838 tons. 
The only decrease, which is barely worthy of notice, is to 
be found in the Outward Foreign Trade, which amounts 
to 61 tons. As regards the amount of duties received, it 
will be observed that during the last year the sum of 
£2820 was collected in excess of that paid in 1874. As 
much as 95 per cent, of the total receipt is received on 
unmanufactured Tobacco, which is removed from Liverpool 
under bond and warehoused here in behalf of a well-known 
firm of tobacco manufacturers in Kilmarnock. The sum 
collected as Lighthouse dues in 1874 shows an increase 
of £147 over 1875, which may be attributed to the fact 
that the rates were higher in the first three weeks of 1874.” 

Shipbuilding, with repairing, has all along been an 
important branch of our industry. The yard, with its two 
graving docks, is at present rented from the Duke by the 
Troon Shipbuilding Co. Some of the finest vessels that 
have left the West of Scotland were built here, and there 
are from 150 to 200 men employed in connection with this 
work. There are rope and sailworks, also a large bonding 
warehouse, and a staff of Custom House officers. Agents, 
representing the various collieries from which the shipping 


POST OFFICE, BANKS, LODGINGS. 27 

is mainly supplied, have their offices at the harbour. 
Foreign States have their Consuls on the spot; and the aid 
of an Interpreter, for several of the languages of Southern 
Europe, is always at hand. 

The Post Office carries on an extensive business and 
provides facilities far greater than the size of the town 
would lead one to expect. There are two stations for 
despatching and receiving telegrams and letters; one at 
Temple Hill, the other at the Harbour : money transactions 
are confined to the former. During 1875, 20,330 telegrams 
were treated; being an increase over the preceding year of 
upwards of 1000. The average number of letters despatched 
is about 5000 weekly; which gives an average of 100 
annually for each inhabitant—four times that of Scotland 
generally, which, during the year 1874, was 25 for each 
individual. This shows the influence of the harbour and 
summer visitors, if it does not also prove the favourable 
condition of the town educationally.* 

The monetary affairs of Troon and neighbourhood have 


* We have three deliveries from the Head Office: the first begins 
at 8.10 a.m. ; the second at 9 a.m. (English); and the third at 7.10 
p.m. And there are five despatches : the first at 10.35 a.m. (for 
Glasgow, Edinburgh, and South of Scotland) ; the second at 3.35 
p.m. (as above, including England, Ireland, and foreign) ; the third 
at 4.35 p.m. (for Irvine, Kilmarnock, Glasgow, Ireland, &c.) ; the 
fourth at 6.10 p.m. (for Ayr, Maybole, Girvan, &c.); and the fifth 
at 7.50 p.m. (for all parts). These arrangements are likely to 
continue unchanged for a considerable time. The Post Master of 
Troon has kindly furnished the above information in regard to this 
department. 



28 


PROGRESS OF TROON. 


been long carried on mainly by a branch of the Union Bank 
of Scotland; in connection with which there is also a Sav¬ 
ings Bank. In 1874, however, a branch of the British 
Linen Company’s Bank was established. 

Ample provision is made for the accommodation of 
strangers. There are two hotels—the Portland Arms and 
the Commercial—both of which are of long standing. 
Tenrperance Coffee Houses have done a little in this direc¬ 
tion ; but Private Lodgings afford the greatest facilities, 
and are largely patronised by summer visitors. Single 
apartments may be had, costing only a few shillings per 
week; or handsome villas of twelve or thirteen apartments, 
costing from £25 to £30 per month. 


TROON, 


CHAPTER V. 

INSTITUTIONS. 

Among the Institutions of Troon, which as yet are few, 
the Churches claim the precedence, at least as the earliest, 
not to speak of other reasons. And yet, like the town, 
these are of comparatively recent date. The Parish Church 
of Dundonald was originally the main source of religious 
instruction—that of Crosbie, for a considerable period, 
though not latterly, sharing the honour. 

With the commencement of the Harbour works, means 
were taken to bring the gospel within reach of the suddenly 
gathering population. Open-air preaching was conducted 
for the benefit of the labourers, who, in great numbers, were 
dwelling in wooden tents around the scene of their toil. 
Then the upper flat of the Ropework, situated where Port¬ 
land Terrace now stands, was rented and seated as a place 
of public worship by the United Secession Presbytery of 
Kilmarnock. As a permanent population began to appear, 
a church was erected by the same body, near the Railway 
arch, in 1822. When the Established Church, soon after, 
entered the field, the Seceders relinquished it as too limited, 



30 


INSTITUTIONS. 


at the time, for both. The building was then rented by 
the Established Presbyter}', and the Rev. James Fleming 
was ordained in it in 1837 ; having laboured as a licentiate 
in the district from 1823. Mr. Fleming—who was thus 
the first ordained minister of Troon—still continues, after 
fully half a century, to discharge all the duties of the sacred 
office, with his wonted strength and zeal. After the erec¬ 
tion of the present Quoad Sacra Church in 1838, the Se- 
ceders again resumed their evangelistic efforts in their old 
home. In it the Rev. David Forrest was ordained in 1840. 
Like their Established brethren, the Seceders soon aspired 
to something better, and erected their present Church— 
the United Presbyterian—in Portland Street in 1843. The 
Disruption taking place when the old building had thus 
been vacated, it was sold to the Free Church, and the 
Rev. Robert Ross was ordained in it the same year. 
On the removal of Mr. Ross to Glasgow, the Rev. A. H. 
Cowan was inducted in it in 1846 ; having been removed 
from Denholm where he had been ordained in 1844. The 
present Free Church was erected in 1857. Thus until the 
ordination of the Rev. John Kirkwood in the United 
Presbyterian Church in 1853, all the ministers of the three 
denominations were set apart, and for several years 
preached the gospel to their respective flocks within the 
same walls. These walls still stand. After having been 
for a while used as a school, thev now serve the honourable 
purpose of an hospital. 


CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS. 


31 


As with our Churches, so with our Schools— Dundonalcl 
was originally the head-quarters. The branch school at 
Parley, however—the first off-shoot for this district—was a 
very early one. The Troon Academy was opened in 1840, 
built by public subscription, with a grant from Government 
of <£167 10s. The Free Church School, built in 1867, now 
under the School Board, and called the Fullarton Public 
School. The Board erected in Academy Street, in 1875, 
the Portland Public School, at a cost of about £2500; 
accommodation being provided for 200 scholars, with 
teacher’s house and other useful appendages. The School 
Board is composed of seven members, whose jurisdiction 
extends to the inland part of the Parish as well as to 
Troon. 

Our latest institution is that of the Life-Boat. This boat 
is the gift of Mrs. Sinclair, of Greenock, and is supported 
entirely by voluntary contributions. It was placed here in 
1871. The expense incurred in keeping it up is about £30 
yearly. It is expected that the crew 7 should practise 
quarterly, but this is not strictly adhered to. The practice, 
wdiich is generally twice a year with an occasional launch in 
emergencies, is an interesting sight both for natives and 
visitors. 


TROON, 


CHAPTER VI. 

RECREATIONS. 

For summer visitors and others, Troon presents not a few 
sources of healthful recreation. On its general healthfulness 
we have already enlarged in describing its situation. Here 
let us briefly notice some of the means of turning that 
advantage to account. 

For Bathing no place can excel Troon. The purity and 
strength of the water cannot be surpassed. The broad and 
gradually shelving sands present facilities for the young 
swimmer who desires scope with safety; and the speedy 
access to deep water at the rocks has its attractions for the 
more expert. For Boating sheltered “neuks” further up 
the Frith have the advantage of us; but if our open sea 
sometimes defies the most daring, it is less treacherous than 
where hemmed in by the hills—sudden quails being here 
almost unknown. Boats of all kinds may be had on hire. 
In these the timid may “ keep near shore,” and have a 
stretch of fully a mile within their depth; or the courageous 
may “ venture more,” and find unbounded scope for deep- 
sea sailing in all directions. Fishing here does not produce 



FISHING, BOWLING, GOLFING, &c. 


33 


what may be considered the more dainty treasures of the 
deep, white fish being comparatively rare. But if you put 
out “ the white feather,” you may have abundance of what 
is known as sport in securing setlie and mackerel. Lob¬ 
sters find their way into many a creel along the shore, and 
salmon into nets at the Breakwater and Black Bock; but 
these are under the charge of professional fishermen. There 
are also ample facilities for Driving —vehicles of all kinds 
and capacities being easily obtained on hire; and various 
routes may be taken, opening up objects of considerable 
interest, of which more anon. 

Bowling may be had on most reasonable terms and in 
good society at our Green. Golfing has its head-quarters 
at Prestwick; which you may reach in eight or ten minutes 
by rail. But we are not without provision for this National 
game among ourselves, as the ground immediately behind 
the New Cemetery, and close to Fullarton woods, is frequently 
employed for this purpose. A portion of this ground is 
known as the Cricket Park; where there are some grand 
field days and keen conflicts between the Troon and neigh¬ 
bouring cricket clubs. The sands, however, more especially 
the grassy plateau in the neighbourhood of the rocks, being 
of easier access, are the favourite resort of the cricketers; 
and a lively scene they make of these in mid-summer. As 
for the more gentle game of CROQUET, almost every cottage 
is provided with ample and excellent accommodation. 

For Lounging, the seats which the Duke of Portland’s 

c 


34 


RECREATIONS AT TROON. 


factor, F. J. Turner, Esq., has kindly provided on the South 
Beach Promenade, also near the rocks and along St. 
Meddan’s Street, are invaluable. We trust those who use 

them will feel charged with their protection, and “ never 
cut a friend.” 

We are not altogether without scope for the scientific, 
who go directly to nature for their materials. In Geology 
we have not much to interest, as our only rocks in situ are 
the coarse trap on the shore, and the fine sandstone opened 
up by the two quarries on the sides of Dundonald Hill. 
The hill itself is mainly composed of trap rock ; the sand¬ 
stone having been originally raised to the surface by it. 
The same volcanic agency was most probably at work at 
the same time on the shore, giving us Troon Point as its 
major outcome, and the Black Bock as its minor ; Lady 
Isle being the last visible effect of the great upheaval sea¬ 
ward. From the two quarries above referred to, some very 
perfect fossil plants may be obtained. But in Mineralogy 
you may find a splendid store. Above the tide mark all 
along the rocks, and at the Breakwater on the side facing 
the shore, fragments which have come in ballast from various 
parts of the world are strewed. These are chiefly Carboni¬ 
ferous and Plutonic, but of considerable variety; the former 
containing several marine fossils. By the way, you must not 
suppose the extensive supply of black diamonds, frequently 
sprinkled on the South Beach, anything more than mere 
dust, lost in the act of loading at the harbour, or coming all 


NATURAL HISTORY. 


35 


the way from Ayr, and brought in where there is an eddy 
of the tide. There are probably some coal seams along the 
shore, raised and pierced by the trap, but they must be too 
far beneath the surface to be thus broken and cast up by 
the sea. We only hope—and believe—that they are also 
too insignificant in their natural bed to be worth working. 
Our Botany is not such a blank as the bare sands might 
lead some to suppose. Besides plants peculiar to spray- 
sprinkled hillocks, we have the “ flowers of the field” in 
great abundance; as some of our fields have been allowed 
thus to bloom, unhurt by the plough, for half a century and 
more. The woods of Fullarton, and especially of Dundonald, 
yield in no stinted measure those wild flowers that love the 
shade. But of course we specially abound in specimens of 
marine botany. You will therefore find a choice sphere for 
the study of Algology on our shores. A group of charmed 
admirers was once seen gathered around a wreath of algse 
at the Crystal Palace, London, when a visitor from these 
parts was startled to find written beneath, “ From Barassie, 
Scotland.” Among the rocks, too, numerous zoophytes 
may be secured to form an aquarium, or as specimens for 
those who cultivate this department of Zoology. Even in 
CONCHOLOGY you may have no insignificant practice ; as 
the little children may be seen “ gathering shells from day 
to day” which might occupy an honourable place in the 
scientific cabinet. If you have made some attainment in 
L anguages, such as Geiman, French, Italian, or Norwegian, 


36 


RECREATIONS AT TROON. 


you can have excellent practice at the Harbour, and spend a 
pleasant hour with some captain, who is sure to enjoy such 
fellowship with the stranger. 

We have provision also for unpropitious days. If you 
have a taste for Billiards, you will find public rooms set 
apart for these. If you have a taste for politics or periodical 
literature, you will find a Beading Boom of easy access— 
strangers being admitted on merely nominal terms. Or, if 
you desire supplies more solid and varied, you can repair to 
the Circulating and Congregational Libraries. 


TROON. 


CHAPTER VII. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Few kinds of recreation are more pleasing and healthful, 
at summer quarters, than Excursions. On these therefore 
we mean to enlarge. The whole remaining portion of our 
little volume, indeed, may be looked on as opening up 
excursions, with Troon as the starting point. In the present 
chapter, however, we merely gather a few fragments before 
entering minutely into those scenes in our surroundings 
which demand and deserve more careful consideration. 

Many visitors, coming chiefly for the sea breezes, are 
satisfied with wandering along the South Beach. And 
there is no doubt more variety and enjoyment here than at 
first sight appears. The wide sweep of unbroken sand, 
generally firm and smooth as a carpet, forms a delightful 
promenade, where not only winds constantly play, but 
many lively little ones find unwearied pleasure— 

“ And build their castles of dissolving sand 
To watch them overflow’d, or following up 
And flying the white breaker, daily leave 
The little footprint daily wash’d away.” 

But you may also take an occasional stroll on the Green 



38 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


Sward that sweeps round the rim of the nearer rocks, 
where cattle brouse calmly, and apparently unmolested, 
amidst the merry group of boys tossing the ball from bat 
or foot. Or you may ascend the Ballast Bank, where 
the noble panorama, already described in our Outlook, is 
stretched before you; and the broad bosom of the ocean, 
swelling and throbbing as if with its many buried sorrows 
and passions, or fretting and foaming itself on the rocks, 
lies beneath you. Nor should you refuse to venture to the 
Pier-head, for there are few sights more interesting than 
those which may be witnessed here. It is about thirty feet 
above the mean tidal level, and commands a complete view 
of the shipping in the Harbour, and a fine prospect both of 
sea and land beyond. It is a great treat for visitors to 
linger at this point and watch vessels rounding it, either 
hoisting their sails to depart, or dropping them as they 
enter the Harbour. The average number of vessels, coming 
and going, is some sixteen or eighteen daily; but, after a 
change of wind, there may be six or eight times that 
number. And while those up the Clyde can only be seen 
dragged like dead fish on a string, here you may frequently 
see them darting at once into their native element, or 
caught by the tug like living members of the finny tribe on 
the point of the hook. You may also behold the literal 
angler’s art in pretty constant operation, if you are not 
tempted yourself to try your hand. 

But besides frequently enjoying these walks, which are, 


BLACK ROCK. 


39 


strictly speaking, within the compass of the town, you will 
find considerable variety beyond it, without at all losing 
the sea breezes. You may proceed along the South Beach 
to the Black Bock, which, with its bald trap without 
a green blade, does not belie its name. Here the impli- 
ments of the salmon fishing are likely to interest you ; and 
possibly you may have the pleasure of seeing some of the 
silvery prey brought safely to land, or secure one un¬ 
doubtedly “ caller” for your table. When the tide is 
approaching ebb you can find access to the Bock from the 
shore—if you do not shrink from adopting the primitive 
mode of pedestrianizing, in which the young, at least, 
delight to revel at the sea side. But beware that you do 
not allow the tide to rise too far before you return, or you 
may find that “ an elephant might swim where a lamb lately 
could wade.” The rock, which stretches for fully a half 
a mile into the sea, is never entirely flooded, except during 
spring tides accompanied with a south-west gale ; but even 
at ordinary high tides it is separated from the shore by 
nearly a quarter of a mile. This, in certain circumstances, 
might prove an awkward barrier between you and the 
mainland. Let us give an example for your warning. 
One evening, towards dusk, some six or eight colliers from 
the Kilmarnock district were attempting the rock. The 
fisherman warned them of their danger; as the tide was in 
a state when they ought to have been returning rather 
than going, and a storm seemed brewing. He only received 


40 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


curses for his cautions—they probably supposing him 
jealous of his own rights rather than caring for their safety. 
Night came on with a wild storm and drenching rain. The 
fisherman could not sleep, with the idea that these fellows 
must be on the rock and might perish. He raised some 
one in the house after mid-night, and, at no small risk to 
themselves, they rowed through the breakers. The rock 
was covered with the sea; and there on a cairn—used as a 
hiding place for shooting birds—with the billows lashing 
and foaming all around it, were the poor colliers, huddled 
together like the last survivors of the great deluge. Their 
former curses were turned into blessings, as they were 
tremblingly taken from the scene of their folly, which they 
fully believed was to prove their last. When safely landed 
they disappeared in the dark, like “ droukit ” hens, and their 
deliverer has seen their faces no more. Not long ago, also, 
a little fellow, struggling in the Gut, and seeking the shore 
with the water at his throat, attracted attention by his 
piercing cries, and was rescued, or the consequences might 
have proved serious. 

Shipwrecks have not been unknown here. We remember 
one dark December night seeing rockets blazing in this 
direction. Next morning there was a large barque high 
and dry on the rock; and side by side with it, on the same 
rugged foundation, was the Ayr tug, which we had seen a 
few days before in the Clyde fresh from the stocks. No 
lives were lost; but the two kept each other company for 


WARNINGS. 


41 


many a day, till the shore was ultimately strewn with the 
timbers of the barque, and the tug only escaped with the 
skin of her teeth—the bottom gone, she was taken on her 
side to Troon, during a gentle calm, perhaps as much 
humbled as hurt by this result of her gallant attempt at a 
rescue in the beginning of her career. 

There have been no shipwrecks with the loss of life 
recorded or remembered in the history of Troon and its 
immediate surroundings ; and even serious consequences 
to vessels have been rare occurrences. The gradually 
shelving sands, prevailing so extensively all around, furnish 
a pretty safe retreat when the Harbour is not reached; and 
vessels stranded on them generally get off with little or no 
injury. We can, indeed, recall a serious calamity in con¬ 
nection with one stranded on the North Shore. On a 
Christmas eve, six or seven of the crew had left the ship by 
the boat, and the mournful sight was witnessed next morning 
of their lifeless bodies brought into the town. But this 
was some days after all had been safely landed, and when 
there was no occasion for any of the crew going ashore 
except for pleasure. Even the wreck we have noticed on 
the Black Bock—the only dangerous trap on our coast— 
was in peculiar circumstances, as the barque was bound 
from Liverpool for the United States, and it is difficult to 
understand what kind of weather brought her so far out of 
her course. Vessels leaving or proceeding to Troon have 
no occasion to pass within three miles of this rough point. 


42 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


There was a sad event occurred here some years ago, to 
which we must refer as a warning to bathers. A young 
man, immediately after his marriage, drove from the country 
to spend the day on the shore with a few friends. He 
went in alone to bathe at the rock. An anxious waiting on 
the part of his friends was followed by a painful discovery. 
The clearness of the water must have deceived him, as he 
had gone in at a place beyond his depth—though he was 
unable to swim—and was lost. There is a rapid current, 
too, at the Gut, when the tide is in strong ebb or flow, unsafe 
excejit for the most expert swimmer. It is well that 
neither of these sources of danger should be overlooked. 

On the rock you will find abundance of shell fish, chiefly 
of the coarser kinds. Numerous little urchins from Kil¬ 
marnock periodically sweep the crevices, but still there is 
enough and to spare. At the further extremity there is an 

almost unbounded supply of Irish Moss (Gracilaria mamil- 

% 

losa), which may provide your table with one of the most 
wholesome of desserts. On a clear, calm, summer day, we 
have witnessed a lovely sight at this point; the weeds and 
algse, revealed to a great depth by the bright sunshine, 
appearing, in their rich luxuriance and varied colours, like 
a tropical forest in miniature. 

Beyond the rock you may enjoy a bracing walk by 
proceeding toward Pow Burn. The intervening bay has a 
special charm. The sands, stretching along for about half 
a mile, surpass even those of the South Beach in unbroken 


THE SANDY DESERT. 


43 


smoothness and firmness under the tread; Troon, and the 
nearer landscape, are shut out; while the hroacl expanse of 
waters open up before you, calling forth, if anything can, 
“a rapture on the lonely shore/’ The young, too, will not 
weary in their gambols among the sandhills, which rise to a 
considerable elevation, affording rare leaps from their tufted 
heights into the soft brown basins below. 

In wading the Pow Burn some caution is needed, as there 
are quicksands in which one might suddenly sink a few 
inches, where firm ground was expected; though we are not 
aware that these can be considered dangerous. 

You may return to Troon inside the Knowes, where the 
extinct embers of little camp fires are often found. This 
walk, I have heard a friend, just come from the Desert 
of Sinai, say, closely resembled tracks which, for days, he 
followed there on the camel’s back. Or you may go along 
this side of the burn to Monkton, where the homely, but 
clean and comfortable cottages, with the fine old ruined 
Church, are sure to interest you. The distance from Troon 
to Monkton by the shore route is within two miles. If you 
return inland, by Crosbie and Craigend, which affords a 
pleasing variety, the whole circuit will not exceed four miles. 

The North Sands are not quite so enjoyable for walking, 
at least till you reach Barassie, as shallow pools are fre¬ 
quently left by the receding tides. This, however, is only a 
partial difficulty, escaped by keeping the turf for a little. 
As you proceed, the walk becomes delightful; and you may 


44 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


be easily tempted to go on all the way to Irvine, returning 
by rail. But these sands have peculiar attractions for the 
equestrian, furnishing a stretch of some four miles, unbroken 
by any troublesome stream. It is a lively sight to witness 
the Eglinton red coats cantering along here, which they 
often do, apparently as a more harmless way of exercising 
themselves and their horses than in the hunt. Both North 
and South Sands, however, are equally favourable for 
riding; presenting a soft yet firm footing for the horse, 
with a free toll. 

By boats you may have one or two short excursions 
which we must notice—though the variety here is not great. 
Of course the Black Bock is most conveniently visited in 
this way. But you may also land on the Seal Bock, 
which is discovered at low tides at no great distance off 
the South Beach. The amphibious creatures, which give 
this partial island its name, are only occasionally seen on it ; 
as also on a low ledge stretching from the North Sands 
a little beyond Barassie. They are very shy, rarely 
remaining within gun shot. Still, a seal is now and again 
secured. But, if you are looking for one, and think a 
fortunate opportunity has occurred, be sure that there 
is no mistake in regard to your game before you fire; 
for we knew of a gentleman swimming near the Barassie 
rocks, with his glazed bathing cap shining above the 
water, who, to his horror, suddenly caught the muzzle of a 
gun pointing at him from the shore, and was just in time to 


LADY ISLE. 


45 


raise his arms and give the human shout, without which his 
neighbour would certainly have discharged the fatal shot at 
the supposed jphoca. 

There is another object seaward, more conspicuous than 
the Seal Rock, which you ought to attempt. We refer to 
the Lady Isle. If the weather is propitious—when alone 
you can venture it—you will enjoy a visit to the Isle, which is 
exactly three miles from the bay, at the corner of the South 
Beach, where pleasure boats are chiefly to be had. It is 
nearly a mile in circumferance; and, never being covered 
with the tide, it has acquired a little vegetation—some 
beautiful sea pink, and other plants that enjoy the spray, 
with grass enough to feed a few rabbits. There is a safe and 
convenient little harbour, facing the land and therefore 
somewhat sheltered, where you may leave your boat for 
hours without any anxiety. And there is drift wood 
enough to furnish you with the means of obtaining something 
hot for your pic-nic, if you are so inclined. Over the island 
you may wander at will, and act as if “ Monarch of all 
you survey.” This, with the loneliness of the spot, amidst 
such an expanse of waters, may help to arouse not a few 
Crusoe memories and feelings. Some, indeed, have re¬ 
alized these feelings more fully than they intended by being 
left here, for a day and a night, “ out of humanity’s reach.” 
They w T ere caught in a storm they could not face, and com¬ 
pelled to make the best of the shelter furnished by the roof¬ 
less building connected with the larger Beacon. But sudden 


46 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


changes, rendering such an experience necessary, are rare, 
and need seldom be dreaded. Even the approach of night 
need not be fatal to your return. We remember, on a calm 
summer evening, enjoying a delightful pull in the dark, with 
no other guide than the Troon Light. 

There have been no serious accidents on the isle except a 
coaster or two coming to grief in thick weather, when the 
crew were easily rescued. Though in the direct course of 
vessels to or from Troon, it is less a source of danger than 
a valuable guide—the two Beacons, which were erected on it 
by the Glasgow merchants shortly before our Harbour was 
formed, being intended not only to ward vessels off the 
rocks, but, when placed in line, to guide them to safe 
anchorage, A few years ago, however, a sad accident 
occurred here to one of a pleasure party from Ayr, who was 
struck with lightning and instantly killed. 

But whence the name, Lady Isle ? Is it derived from 
some charming beauty who “ wasted her sweetness on the 
desert air 1 ” Or did some dreadful calamity befall a female 
visitor here, the memory of which is thus maintained ? We 
think it must rather be traced to one who never had her foot 
on these or the neighbouring shores, though her name has been 
pretty extensively connected with them. The ‘ Lady’ who 
is thus commemorated we believe to be no other than the 
Virgin Mary. The island was at one time connected with 
a very ancient ecclesiastical establishment, near Adamton, 
called Lady Kirk—a favourite resort of the early Scottish 


LADY ISLE, AND BEYOND. 


47 


kings when in these parts—the ruins of which still remain 
in the form of a picturesque ball tower in a sweet secluded 
situation. The kirk was dedicated to and derived its name 
from the Virgin, and had both extensive influence and 
possessions in its day. AVe can still find numerous traces 
of “Our Lady,” as she was then styled, in “St. Mary’s 
Chapels,” scattered over the neighbourhood, and in “ Lady 
Wells,” appearing here and there all the way from the kirk 
to the woods of Fullarton, immediately opposite the island. 
It is, indeed, possible that the isle may have given its name 
to the kirk and the adjacent lands instead of deriving it 
from them. It may have been originally considered specially 
sacred (as was the case with many spots similarly situated, 
hence called Holy Isles), and the occasional resort of some 
earnest monk, who sought on it to cut himself off from the 
temptations of the world, and come forth, from time to 
time, as Columba did from Iona, to enlighten the inhabitants 
of the mainland. It was, at all events, dedicated in early 
days to the Virgin, and has borne her name ever since. 
By a charter, dated 9th December, 1698, “ William Full¬ 
erton received the five pound land of Aldtown,* containing 
the little isle, opposite to the land of Crosbie, called the 
Lady Isle.” Ultimately it came into the possession of the 
Duke of Portland when he purchased the Fullarton estates. 

In concluding this chapter on Excursions we may notice 

* Some copies read Adamton, which would make the link between 
Lady Kirk and Lady Isle more certain, but we think the reading 
in our text more probably the correct one. 




48 


EXCURSIONS FROM TROON. 


that Troon is a most convenient starting point for visiting 
the beauties of Ayrshire. You might take a day at Eglinton 
grounds and Castle, returning by Kilwinning to see its 
famous Abbey; or at Wallace’s Monument, Barnweil; or at 
“ Loudoun’s bonnie woods and braes or at Barskimming 
and Ballochmyle, passing by Tarbolton and Coilsfield ; or at 
Ayr, Alloway, and Burns’ Cottage; or at Dalmellington, 
with Glen Ness and Loch Boon; or along the Carrick shore 
to Culzean Castle, returning, if you will, byJVTaybole, and 
going a mile or so out of your way to see Crossraguel Abbey; 
or in the valley of the Girvan, including Lady Glen, with 
some of the lovely estates in the neighbourhood. Nearly 
all of these can be overtaken either by rail or by driving 
frpm this, as you may prefer, and open up scenes at once 
beautiful in themselves and interesting from their historical 
or poetical associations. And a long day at Arran may be 
enjoyed without being from home over night. 

We have not, however, to go so far to find scenery both 
outwardly attractive and historically interesting. We may 
find sufficient to interest us in the district between^ Troon 

J 

and Dundonald, to which we now seek to turn the attention 
of our readers, in the hope of inducing both natives and 
visitors to venture occasionally beyond the “ ribbed sea 
sand,” and enjoy our sylvan retreat. 


TROON. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

FULLARTON. 

A visit to Fullarton has a special charm to one dipping into 
its woods from the bare beach and wide expanse of waters. 
And, when you are embowered within these woods, there is 
no less a charm in the fine glimpses you have, now and 
again, of the blue distance beyond. 

Fullarton House is about a mile and a-half from the 
cottages on the South Beach. You reach it most directly by 
leaving the shore at Craigend Farm—a conspicuous and 
graceful steading, in the old style, at the end of the Craigs , 
near the Black Bock. The farm is now in the hands of the 
Duke of Portland, and managed by his land Steward. 
Proceeding inland, you pass a lone little cot known as the 
“ Danderin Inn,” a House of Call for Pedestrians in earlier 
days. Crossing the Bailway, with the cluster of cottages, 
called Lochgreen, on your right; and, passing the fir 
plantation, on your left, you will observe an old dove-cote 
at the head of the road. Dr Turner, of Samoa, writing us 
from his South Sea home, once observed, “ I am looking 
at the engraving, on page 269 of Thomson’s ‘ Land and the 

D 



50 


FULLARTON. 


Book/ which brings before me, and seems almost identical 
with the dove-cote at Fullarton.” A memorable object 
this, then, suggestive of what has, for thousands of years, 
been common in Syria and the East! 

Through noble specimens of the ash, the sycamore, 
the elm, &c., you approach Fullarton House. The offices 
and gardener's house have a pleasing dignity as seen 
through the trees, and the gardens behind are well worth 
visiting. There, besides ordinary beauties, you will find 
one of the largest hollies in Scotland; also, a rare curiosity, 
an ever-green oak. 

Immediately before you come to the present House, 
you pass the old mansion partially, buried in the 
wood. But little of its ancient dignity remains; though, 
from the thickness of its walls and the fragments of 
its arched roof, you may conclude that it was no mean 
edifice in its day. It is now a small ivy-clad ruin used 
chiefly as an ice-house. It was originally called Crosbie 
House, and retained its name for some time after it came 
into the hands of the Fullartons ; being described in ancient 
deeds as “ their place of Crosbie." It is said to have been 
a residence of Sir Reginald Crawfurd, the maternal uncle of 
Sir William Wallace, and it is very probable that the great 
hero frequently spent some time here. Blind Harry, who 
is often fanciful in his story but generally accurate in his 
local knowledge, brings it prominently forward in connec¬ 
tion with a striking incident in his narrative. He refers to 


OLD FULLARTON OR CROSBIE HOUSE. 


51 


a night of mirth spent in it, as the home of Sir Reginald, 
and describes uncle and nephew proceeding, next morning, 
to Ayr, to attend a summons of the English governor, when 
suddenly it was discovered (at Kincase, in Prestwick,) that 
the charter of peace had been left behind at Crosbie. 
Wallace returned for it; but learned, on approaching Ayr, 
that, with several of the neighbouring gentry who had been 
also summoned to the Justice, his uncle had been treacher¬ 
ously seized and instantly hanged. In revenge, the well- 
known burning of the Barns of Ayr speedily followed. 

An extract, in its original form, from Blind Harry, 
may interest some of our readers:— 

* ‘ He thankit hym, and thus his leyff has tayne : 

Till Corsbe syne with his uncle raid hayme. 

With myrthis thus, all nycht, thai soiornyt thar, 

Apon the morn thai graitli them to the ar; 

And furth thai ryd, quliill thai come to Kingace, 

With dreidfull hart thus sperit wicht Wallace 
At Schyar Ranald, for the charter off pees. 

* Neuo,’ he said. ‘ Thir wordis ar nocht les, 

It is lewyt at Corsb4, in the kyst 
Quliar thou it laid ; tharoff na othyr wist. ’ 

Wallace answered, ‘ Had we it her to schaw, 

And thai be falss, we suld nocht entir awe.’ 

‘ Der sone,’ he said, ‘ I pray thee pass agayne, 

Thocht thou wald send, that trawaill war in wayne ; 

But thou, or I, can nane it bryng this tid,’ 

Gret grace it was maid him agayne to ryd. 

Wallace returnd, and tuk with him bot thre, 

Nane off thaim knew this endentour bot he.” 

—Buke Seioynd, p.p. 135-136. 


52 


FULLARTON. 


We can see no sufficient reason, with Paterson, for preferr¬ 
ing the claims of the Crosbie in West Kilbride, as referred to in 
the above. It is too far out of the way to fit the narrative. 

The lands of Crosbie, with whatever mansion there might 
be here, came very early into the possession of the Fullar- 
tons; afterwards for centuries to be called by their name. 
They were a very ancient family—the distance too dim to 
fix on the exact period of their settling on these shores. 
They were originally retainers, probably fowlers of the 
Kings, their ancient arms representing the hawk at work 
among the fowls. A branch of the family held property 
in Arran, the members of which attached themselves to the 
cause of Robert the Bruce, and seem to have been of con¬ 
siderable service to the fugitive when he found shelter in 
that island, on his way to Carrick shore and the crown. 
But, even earlier than that period, the main stem had grown 
strong at the mouth of the Irvine, where a rising suburb 
is still called Fullarton; though modern manufactures 
have greatly changed the scene, and not improved the 
savour of the name. The first of the Fullartons we can 
trace in that neighbourhood, died about 1280. Reginald 
de Fowlertown, the third in the succession, was a cotem¬ 
porary of Wallace, and bore the name of the patriot’s uncle. 
Might he not also be a relation, and thus come to heir this 
portion of the property? We know, at least, how soon 
afterwards it was confirmed to the family. When Robert 
II. was High Steward, he gave to the son of Reginald a 


53 


ORIGINAL CHARTER. 

charter securing to him, and his descendants, the posses¬ 
sions they so long occupied. This charter—upwards of 530 
years old—being of national interest, has been reproduced in 
a magnificent volume lately published, by command of Her 
Majesty the Queen, entitled, “ Fac Similies of National 
Manuscripts of Scotlandfor turning our attention to which 
we are indebted to a gentleman, in our district, deeply in¬ 
terested in these matters. As the document is of much 
local interest, we give it in full, from the original Latin, as 
we have it in the above work :— 

“ Know all present and to come, that we, Robert, Steward of 
Scotland, have given, granted, and by this, our present charter, 
confirmed to our beloved Sir Adam of Foullartown, knight, son and 
lieir of deceased Reginald Foullartown, for his homage and service, 
the whole lands of Foullartown & of Gaylis in Kyle Stewart, by all 
their right boundaries and divisions, together with the whole fishing 
from the land which is called Trone to the entrance of the harbour 
of Irewyne, and so ascending by the water of Irewyne as far as 
the land of Foullartown extends : and in four marks and half a 
mark of annual rent from the land of Scliawltown, proportionably to 
be taken up of Whitsunday and Martinmas in winter, and of all 
which foresaid lands of Foullartown & of Gaylis with the fishing 
and annual rent before named, all manner of right and claim that 
Joan, Ellen, and Marjory, sisters, daughters of the late Reginald 
Foullartown aforesaid, had or may have in the foresaid lands, fishing 
and annual rent above named, with all their pertinents, they to us 
upgave, resigned, and wholly for them and their heirs for ever 
cpiitclaimed, To hold and to have to the said Sir Adam and his 
heirs, of us and our heirs, in fee and heritage for ever, freely, 
quietly, fully, honourably, well and in peace, in mills, mul¬ 
tures, woods, plains, meadows, pastures, ways, paths, waters, 
fishponds, petaries, moors, marshes, fishings, and annual rents, 
with all other commodities, liberties, easements, as well not 


54 


FULLARTON. 


named as named, to the said lands belonging or that may 
in time to come in any way belong. Rendering therefor yearly 
to us and our heirs One Pair of White Gloves * * * * in 

name of feuferme; and paying suit at our court of Kyle, at three 
head courts in the year for all forinsec service, aid, custom, exac¬ 
tion, and secular demand, and for all things which, from the said 
lands, fishing and annual rent, and also, liberties, and easements 
before-mentioned, can in any way or at any time be demanded. 
And we Robert, Steward of Scotland and our heirs the foresaid 
lands of Foullartown and of Gaylis, with all their pertinents as 
aforesaid, together with the fishing and four marks and half a mark 
of annual from the lands of Schawlltown before named, to the 
present Sir Adam of Foullertown and his heirs against all men and 
women will warrant, acquit and for ever defend. In witness 
whereof to our present charter we have caused our seal to be put. 
Witnesses the Lord John Steward our Brother, William Symple 
elder, Sir Nigel of Carotheris our Chancellor, Ralph of Crawforth, 
Fynlay son of Henry and many others. Given at Irrewyn the 
thirteenth day of the month of April in the year of grace One 
thousand three hundred and forty four.” 

In a note by the Editor of the Royal volume, from which 
we have taken the above deed, it is said, “The gallant 
soldier, both before and after he came to the throne, liked 
to live in his own country, and the witnesses are his Ayr¬ 
shire neighbours and vassals, Sempills and Crawfords.” 

The present fullarton house was erected in 1745 ; the 
year of the Rebellion, when the hopes of the Stewart 
dynasty, in the direct line, were for ever blasted. The 
building has undergone several alterations since. Two 
wings have considerably added to its extent; but an awk¬ 
ward change, by which what was formerly the back has 
become the front, must have deprived it of some archi- 


THE LAST OF THE FULLARTONS. 


55 


tectural grace it might otherwise have possessed. It was 
well, however, to make it face such a lovely scene. What 
could be finer than the glimpses it has of Troon and its 
harbour; with the sea and Arran appearing over the dark 
woods, fringed at their base with these rich evergreens and 
ornamental trees and shrubs % And how naturally its 
ultimate proprietor would rejoice thus to command the 
town and port which his enterprise had called into 
existence. 

The only heir born in this house (the birth taking place 
nine years after it was built) was the last of the Fullarton 
lairds. He was the twentieth in the succession, closing a 
line which could be traced unbroken for nearly 600 years. 
This was Colonel William Fullarton; a man who, in every 
respect, deserved a better fate. He became heir in his fifth 
year. At sixteen he was put under the charge of a well- 
known gentleman and scholar, Patrick Bryden, Esq. On 
attaining his majority he was appointed principal secretary 
to the Embassy of Lord Stormont at the court of France. 
He went to India with his regiment, and there received 
the command of 13,000 men — comprising the Southern 
army on the coast of Coromandel. During the French war 
he raised a regiment known as Fullarton’s Light Horse; 
and his interest in military matters still lingers in the 
memory of some in the neighbourhood, who were present at 
a grand review of troops at Troon point—then bare of 
buildings—where several thousand soldiers, with probably 


56 


FULLARTON. 


as many spectators, were gathered together to see the skill 
and strength which the West Country could command 
to ward off the then threatened invasion. He was 
afterwards governor of Trinidad. At home he was 
several times returned as a member of Parliament—on two 
occasions to represent his native county—the last time 
unanimously. As an author he was not unknown in his 
day. He published “A view of the English interests in 
India,” with an account of his campaign there. Also, “ An 
account of the Agriculture of the County of Ayr, with 
observations on the means of its improvement.” He is 
“ honourably mentioned ” by his great cotemporary Burns, 
in the “ Vision.” There the poet sees him, in the midst of 
his rising greatness, one of the most conspicuous names on 
“ Coila’s mantle large of greenish hue.” Referring to him 
in connection with his early guardian he says, 

“ Bryden’s brave ward I well can spy, 

Beneath old Scotia’s smiling eye ; 

Who called on Fame, low standing by, 

To hand him on, 

Where many a Patriot-name on high 
And Hero shone.” 

And further on, in the same poem, we have 

“ Hence Fullarton the brave and young.” 

He died at London in 1808, in his 54th year. He has left 
an honourable name, though no son and heir bore it after 
him. He had been constrained by circumstances, in 1805, 
to sell the property of his fathers, at an age when he might 
have hoped for many years to enjoy it. 


THE LATE DUKE OF PORTLAND. 


57 


The purchaser of the Fullarton estates at that time was 
the late Duke of Portland. He had previously (1795) mar¬ 
ried Henrietta Scott, daughter of General Scott; through 
whom he came into possession of the estates of Kilmarnock. 
Both he and his successors, by royal permission, have heired 
the name as well as the property of this lady; and hence the 
signature “Scott Portland,” to which our Harbour Table of 
Bates and Dues bears witness. A strong inducement to 
make the purchase of these lands was the fact that Troon 
afforded an excellent means for the formation of a harbour, 
as an outlet for the valuable mineral treasures of the Duke 
in the neighbourhood of Kilmarnock. It had no doubt 
also its attractions as a place of residence. At least he 
loved it; for, along with his family, he spent a considerable 
portion of each summer here. The Harbour, in so far as it 
is a work of art, and the town of Troon, as we have already 
seen, owe everything to him. He laid their foundations; 
for more than forty years he exercised a paternal care over 
their fortunes; and was spared to see them reach a most 
flourishing and hopeful condition. He died in 1853, at the 
ripe age of 87. His name is still cherished lovingly by 
tenants, cottars, and servants of all classes, whom he often 
visited or greeted in a most friendly manner. Many a story 
is told of his generosity, ever bestowed with true nobility. 
He enters a cot during a shower; and, after a short chat, 
asks the old woman for the loan of an umbrella. Never 
suspecting who her visitor is, she hesitates, and says that she 


58 


FULLARTON. 


is not sure about giving it to a stranger; but, as he 
seems to have an honest face, she will trust him. Next 
morning a servant from Fullarton House calls with the 
Duke’s compliments, the umbrella and a guinea.—A beauti¬ 
fully engraved portrait of him, as he appeared in his ad¬ 
vanced years, may be seen adorning many a dwelling in the 
district. 

We can never think of this good Duke of Portland—the 
fourth of his noble line—without being reminded of the first 
of that line; the faithful Bentinck, friend and companion of 
our William, Prince of Orange. You will pardon the re¬ 
production of a passage from Lord Macaulay, where, in his 
own glowing manner, he brings before us the origin of the 
family. Referring to a period before William had left Holland 
to occupy and establish the British Throne, Macaulay says : 
“ Highest in his favour stood a gentleman of his household, 
named Bentinck, sprung from a noble Batavian race, and 
destined to be the founder of one of the great patrician 
houses of England. The fidelity of Bentinck had been tried 
by no common test. It was when the United Provinces 
were struggling for existence against the French power that 
the young Prince, on whom all their hopes were fixed, was 
seized by the small pox. * * At length his complaint 

took a favourable turn. His escape was attributed partly to 
his own singular equanimity, and partly to the intrepid and 
indefatigable friendship of Bentinck. From the hands of 
Bentinck alone William took food and medicine. By Ben- 


FOUNDER OF THE PORTLAND FAMILY. 


59 


tinck alone William was lifted from his bed and laid down 
in it. ‘ Whether Bentinck slept or not while I was ill/ 
said William to Temple with great tenderness, ‘ I know 
not. But this I know, that, through sixteen days and 
nights, I never once called for anything hut that Bentinck 
was instantly by my side.’ Before the faithful servant had 
entirely performed his task, he himself caught the contagion. 
Still, however, he bore up against drowsiness and fever till 
his master was pronounced convalescent. Then, at length, 
Bentinck asked leave to go home. It was time : for his 
limbs would no longer support him. He was in great 
danger, but recovered, and, as soon as he left bed, hastened 
to the army, where, during many sharp campaigns, he was 
ever found, as he had been in peril of a different kind, close 
to William’s side. Such was the origin of a friendship as 
warm and as pure as any that ancient or modern history 
records.” 

You may trace further the founder of the Portlands as he 
appears prominently in four volumes of the work of our 
great historian. Fain would we follow him in such stirring 
scenes as his crossing the channel in the same ship with the 
Prince at the beginning of the Revolution, or his fighting at 
the head of his Dutch troops by his side, when— 

“King William crossed Boyne Water.” 

But, at the risk of being charged with transgressing, we 
cannot deny ourselves another extract, all the more touching 


60 


FULLARTON. 


as it is from the last page Macaulay ever penned. “ William 
was told that the end was approaching. He swallowed a 
cordial, and asked for Bentinck. These were his last articu¬ 
late words. Bentinck instantly came to the bedside, bent 
down, and placed his ear close to the King’s mouth. The 
lips of the dying man moved, but nothing could be heard. 
The King took the hand of his earliest friend, and pressed 
it tenderly to his heart. In that moment, no doubt, all that 
had cast a slight passing cloud over their long and pure 
friendship was forgotten. It was now between seven and 
eight in the morning. He closed his eyes and gasped for 
breath. The bishop knelt down and read the commendatory 
prayer. When it ended, William was no more.” 

Various members of the Portland family have since 
occupied important places in the field and in the senate* 
One of them, to whom these walls and grounds were 
familiar in his early years, and who, if he had been spared, 
would have been their honoured proprietor, was Lord George 
Bentinck, third son of the late Duke. You will find a full 
account of his public career, in his Life, “A Political 
Biography,” in 2 vols., by B. Disraeli, the present Prime 
Minister. The Biography opens with a glowing sketch of 
the political character of Lord George: “ During three years, 
under circumstances of great difficulty, he displayed some of 
of the highest qualities of public life; courage and a lofty 
spirit ; a mastery of details which experience usually alone 
confers ; a quick apprehension and clear intelligence ; in- 


LORD GEORGE BENTINCK AND THE PRESENT DUKE. 61 


domitable firmness, promptness, punctuality, and perse¬ 
verance which never failed, an energy seldom surpassed, and 
a capacity for labour which was perhaps never equalled.” 
And Mr. Disraeli closes the ample details of the great 
national movements in which Lord George took a most 
prominent part, by a touching and minute account of the 
circumstances in which he was found dead, at the gate of 
the deer park in his father’s grounds at Welbeck, in 
September, 1848. Often did he sport among these woods 
of Fullarton; and his youthful face can still be distinctly 
recalled by many retainers and others in the neighbourhood. 
Some can tell you pleasing little incidents of his boyhood; 
as of his sailing his model boats at the Black Rock, and, in 
spite of restraint, plunging into the water after them when 
they seemed likely to go off to sea—just as he afterwards 
plunged into the unfortunate troubles of the turf, or into 
stormy scenes on the floor of the House of Commons. The 
housekeeper, in showing you the rooms once occupied by 
the different members of the family, besides the chamber of 
the good old Duke, will be careful to point out that of Lord 
George. 

Many honourable guests have been entertained at Fullar¬ 
ton House. In Nelson’s “ Guide to the Land of Burns” it 
is mentioned that the late Napoleon III. resided in it for a 
short time during his exile in this country. Local tradition, 
however, points to Hillhouse as the scene of this sojourn, 
which seems to have occurred when Napoleon visited 


62 


FULLARTON. 


Ayrshire in connection with the Eglinton Tournament. 

The present Duke of Portland has been seldom, if ever, 
here since his father’s death. He is the last of the Port¬ 
lands in the Bentinck line, having never married, and being 
the only surviving son of the late Duke. He is (1876) in 
his 76th year, and the oldest Duke in the peerage. His 
wealth is vast, and constantly accummulating. He has 
other estates in Scotland besides those in Ayrshire, and his 
English property is immensely more valuable than his 
Scotch; and yet, from this county alone, he realises, ac¬ 
cording to the Government return for 1873, £62,032 
annually. The area yielding this sum is 25,634 acres, 
whereof 4407 form the Fullarton Estates. The only other 
property in the county which realises more is that of the 
Glasgow and South-Western Railway Co., for whom his 
honoured father opened the golden vein which now pours 
forth £130,232 annually to that Company. The total 
annual revenue of the Duke, from all sources, was estimated 
in 1873 at £300,000.* 

Instead of returning to Troon the way you came, if per¬ 
mission can be obtained to go by the approach you will find 
a great treat. The Rhododendron walk, with the various 


* The heir to the Dukedom is a cousin of his Grace’s.—Major- 
General Bentinck, late 7th Dragoon Guards. The entailed estates 
of Kilmarnock will, at the death of the present Duke, descend to 
the heirs of the late Duchess of Portland; but it is unknown by 
wdiom Fullarton, Cessnock, Hainingcross, Skeldon, and other estates 
will be held, as these belong to the Duke in Fee Simple. 



FULLARTON. 


63 


windings suddenly opening into the country and again 
plunging into the retirement of the tall pines, is sure to he 
enjoyed. Or you may go round by Loans. Crosbie, 
however, is just at hand, little more than five minutes from 
the head of the road by which you reached this, and you 
may prefer to overtake it first. 


TROON. 


CHAPTER IX. 

CKOSBIE. 

Crosbie can be reached direct from Troon, either by the 
Fullarton road, or by another striking up from the shore 
nearly a mile beyond the South Beach cottages. When you 
go by the one, you should return by the other. Taking the 
Shore road, you pass Black Rock cottages—a favourite 
summer retreat for those who love special retirement, and 
commanding the scene of the salmon fishing. After crossing 
the railway, skirting and dipping into the wood, you are at 
Crosbie. The distance by either way is the same—within 
two miles. 

The lodge is a sweet picture. Even more than to “ Tibbie 
Shields’” might North’s facetious description of the wren’s 
nest apply to this cozy wee biggin’ “theekit wi’ moss.” 
Many a warbler of the woods literally finds shelter beneath 
this solid looking roof, along with its lawful inhabitants. 
The pillared moat behind it is the spot where the ancient 
barons dispensed justice, and where the large cross may have 
stood from which the place derives its name of Crosbie, or 



PILLARS AND CURLING POND. 


65 


the dwelling by the Cross. Other pillars, resembling this, 
attract attention on the grounds. That seen over the fields, 
and which you passed on your way to Fullarton House, is 
said to be situated on what was once an island: to give it, 
we may suppose, character and prominence. Ultimately a 
gate was attached to this pillar, known still as “ the gate of 
the isle o’ pins.” Was this a humorous designation derived 
from these pin-like pillars, just as the “ Folly” was of 
another architectural ornament of the Fullartons h There 
was a good deal of local wit, at all events, at the expense of 
that worthy family, showing the liberty taken with digni¬ 
ties in those days. The residue of the loch that surrounded 
this isle still lingers as the Reed Loch; shaded amongst the 
clump of trees between this and “ the pin/’ and now the 
favourite Curling pond of the district. Lochgreen—the 
name of the cottages close by; the deep drain or burn 
passing in front of the house traced under cover to the field 
where the pin stands; and the gravel beds beneath the 
surface in the same field, clearly indicate the existence, at 
one time, of considerable sheets of water in their neighbour¬ 
hood. There are those living who can remember the 
disappearance of some of these. We may here remark that 
there are two pillars, of the same character, attached to a fine 
ornamental gateway, half buried among foliage at the end of 
the wood near Lawhill. That gateway is worth looking at, 
and more than one artist has carried it off on the point of 
his pencil. 


E 


6G 


CROSBIE. 


The olcl Church and Churchyard of Crosbie, around which 
a village once clustered, are close by the Lodge. The ruin 
resembles “ Alloway’s auld haunted Kirk f and, but for its 
being so much concealed by these outside walls, would be 
acknowledged as even more picturesque. The spot was, 
doubtless, a sacred one further back than we can trace. It 
is known to have been so in the days of the High Stewards. 
The Church is mentioned as early as 1229, when it was 
granted by the Second Walter the Steward, to the Gilber- 
tine Convent, founded by him that same year at St. Quivox. 
It came into the hands of the Fullartons by a charter from 
Robert II. In this, and other charters, the designation of 
Fullarton is “Dominus de Crosbie,” i. e., lord or laird of 
Crosbie. Out of this lordship Sir Adam Fullarton made a 
mortification to the Abbot and Convent of Paisley, in 1392, 
“ for the health of his soul and the souls of his ancestors. ’’ 
The Church had been previously known as “ the Chapelry 
of Crosbie” under Dundonald, but this mortification brought 
it under the same regime as Monkton and Prestwick; whose 
monks and priests had their head-quarters also in Paisley. 
In these hands it remained till the Reformation. There¬ 
upon it was converted into a Protestant Parish Church, with 
Fullarton as patron. The first minister who occupied it in 
this capacity was one Adam Wallace, styled an Exhorter, 
who was appointed to the Church in 1567, or six years after 
the formal establishment of the Reformation. In 1651 it 
was again annexed to the United Parishes of Monkton and 


CROSBIE CHURCH AND CHURCHYARD. 


67 


Prestwick. A new building was erected in 1681, on the 
site of the old one. Seven years afterwards—the year of 
the Revolution—it was restored to the Parish of Dun- 
donald, was henceforth seldom used as a place of worship, 
and allowed gradually to become a picturesque ruin. A 
story goes that it retained its roof till the night of the 25th 
January, 1759, the same 

“ When a blast o’ Jan war win’ 

Blew hansel in on Robin.” 

and when a certain unmentionable was engaged 

“ On the strong-wing’d tempest flyin’ 

Tirlin’ the Kirks.” 

The fate was deserved, at whatever time and by whatever 
means it came about, since the new walls had so soon ceased 
to echo the gospel message. 

But though the church of Crosbie has thus been silent 
for nearly 200 years, and occupied only by the congregation 
of the dead, the churchyard has been serving its solemn 
purpose down to our own days. Till 1863, it was the only 
burying ground for Troon and neighbourhood; and, although 
new lairs cannot now be had, families long connected with 
the locality are still accustomed to bury their dead here. 
Having thus been used for at least six centuries and a-half, 
to which any records we can trace extend, how many 
generations who toiled and sung over these fields, and along 
these shores, have here found their last resting place! How 
many hearts, too, still beating on lands and seas all around 


<38 


CROSBIE. 


the globe, turn to this spot as containing dust that is dear 
to them ! Several old tombstones, with their curious head¬ 
ings, may be examined. There is one of special interest 
from its age, and the relation of the name inscribed on it to 
an important event in general history. It will be found at 
the foot of the east gable. On the large slab (the restora¬ 
tion of a more ancient one, a fragment of which is still 
preserved, and may be found near the spot,) you may read, 
round the edge of the stone, in relieved characters without 
any division of words, and with letters occasionally run 
together:— 

“ HEIR. LYE CORPIS OF ANE HONOVRABEL MAN CALLT | 
DAVID HAMELTOVNE | OF BOTHELHAVGHE SPOVS TO 
ELESOWE SINCLAR IN HIS | TIME QVHA DESIST | THE 
14th OF MERCHE 1619.” 

The name Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh at once suggests an 
incident in our later Reformation struggles, which brought 
to Scotland one of her greatest sorrows, and sent a pang to 
all the friends of liberty and truth throughout Europe—the 
assassination of the Good Regent Murray. The story is 
familiar. A room in the principal street of Linlithgow is 
darkened with black cloth, lest the shadow of the inmate 
might be detected from without; a bed is placed on the 
floor to prevent the heavy boots of a fully armed horseman 
being heard; and one of the best steeds from Hamilton 
Palace waits in the back garden. In that room the fatal 
shot is fired, whilst the Regent is passing in the midst of a 


HAMILTON OF BOTHWELLHAUGH. 


69 


crowded procession. The ball pierces through the body, 
leaving a mortal wound. In the consternation of the moment 
the murderer is far on his way to Hamilton Palace before 
his lurking place is discovered. He is received in triumph 
by the Duke, and by the Roman Catholic Arch-Bishop of 
St. Andrews; who immediately further his progress to the 
continent, where he is supported by a pension from Mary 
Queen of Scots, the Regent’s sister. There we can trace 
him for several years afterwards. Philip II. of Spain 
engaged him to assassinate the first Prince of Orange—the 
famous William the Silent, hero and hope of Holland and 
Protestantism. Another actually accomplished the foul 
deed; but, as Froude remarks, “ It was no fault of Bothwell- 
liaugh that he was not either the executioner or contriver 
of the foulest assassinations which disgraced the sixteenth 
century.” 

It is the son of this murderer whose dust lies beneath this 
Crosbie stone. He came of a strange stock, for others of 
his relatives had the same bad fame. James was the name 
of the assassin of Murray; and a brother, John, was engaged 
in France to murder Admiral Coligny, the friend and leader 
of the Huguenots. “ These Hamiltons,” says Froude, “ John 
as well as James, were no better than hired bravos, and 
were not particular whom they murdered if they gained 
anything by it.” But how came David Hamilton here? 
We have an answer to this in the register of the lands of 
Fullarton, where it is recorded that “David Fullarton of 


70 


CROSBIE. 


that ilk was twice married, first to Christina, daughter of 
James Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, and sister to David 
Hamilton, afterwards of the same place/’ He was thus 
brother to the lady of Fullarton. Whether he was driven 
by the ill fame of his father, or drawn by the hospitality of 
his sister, to seek shelter in this comparatively quiet home, 
we cannot tell; but his relationship with the proprietor 
accounts sufficiently for his dust lying here. It is supposed 
that he had a home of his own at Fairfield, in the immediate 
vicinity, and was proprietor of Monkton-mains. Unfortu¬ 
nately it was through Christina, Fullarton’s first wife and the 
assassin’s daughter, that the succession was continued in 
the family. Her eldest son inherited the property; while 
for his second wife, Fullarton, made provision by a charter 
conferring on her the lands of St. Meddans and Craiksland, 
afterwards confirmed by King James VI., from Holyrood 
House, in 1600. 

A very interesting tale, entitled, “ David Hamilton of 
Bothwellhaugh,” was published a good many years ago, 
written by the late Mr. J. S. Lockhart. In it the scenes in 
and around Crosbie are enlivened by some fine incidents of 
the imagination, without the reader being troubled with the 
historical questions we have noticed.* 

* The history of the Hamiltons, and especially the assassin’s after 
career, has been carefully examined, from original Records, by 
Kelso Thwaites, Esq., S.S.C., with results differing widely from 
those generally received. He has been requested by the Antiquarian 
Society of Scotland to publish these, and we are glad to learn from 
him that he is likely to comply with this request. 



FROM CROSBIE TO LOANS. 


71 


If not anxious to return direct to Troon by either of the 
ways by which you reached this, you may have a detour by 
Loans, with a choice of three ways. You may take the 
parish road behind the Lodge, passing the row of cottages 
called Causieside, and Lawhill—at the lug o’ the law in the 
days of the barons, now the gamekeeper’s house—thus reach¬ 
ing the high-way immediately opposite the finely situated 
farm of South Side. Or you may take a still longer but very 
interesting route by the little cot just at hand—said to be 
the site of, if not the veritable, old Crosbie Manse; then 
passing the sequestered Aldton, and Monktonhill farm, so 
snugly sheltered by the opposite wood; and the Monkton 
Free Church Manse, deserted meanwhile as too distant from 
the minister’s sphere of labour, though most temptingly 
situated; and skirting the corner of the richly wooded estate 
of Fairfield, a favourite summer retreat, occupied lately by 
Lord Cowan, you reach the high road which you follow in 
the direction of Hobsland—the farm which has been all the 
way looking on you so sweetly from the brow of the hill. 
At the junction of the roads you may turn aside to the 
right by the farm of Townend, and have a peep at the 
village of Monkton, or pass through it to the station there 
and return to Troon by rail. Otherwise you keep by the 
high-way to the left, and proceed to Loans, from which, at 
the junction, you are distant exactly two miles. 


CHAPTER X. 


LOANS. 

Setting out from Troon for Loans, after passing the Rail¬ 
way Station, you see the new Cemetery, close by the 
cottages a little off the road to the right. It was opened in 
1863; no extension being allowed at Crosbie churchyard. 
The principal monument, meanwhile, is in the centre of the 
grounds, erected over the remains of the late Dr. Highet, 
for about 30 years an able medical practitioner in Troon. 
You next pass, on the other side of the road, Darley School 
—the mother of all institutions of the kind on this side the 
Hill, and still retaining something of its early fame, as it 
does its sweet situation. The approach to Loans, from 
beyond this, presents a pleasing rural picture, which has 
called forth the skill of more than one artist. 

On reaching the Ayr road, at that point about two miles 
from Troon, you have the offices of the farm of Crossburn 
on your right. These of themselves are sufficient to indicate 
the extensive operations of which they are the centre. There 
are upwards of 800 acres of arable land connected with 
them, stretching from Troon to near the top of Dundonald 


BRANDY HOLES AND CARGOES. 


73 


Hill. Beyond the offices you have a glimpse of the House. 
It is half-buried in trees, and approached by a lovely little 
avenue of evergreens. 

In Loans you see all the cleanliness and comfort of a 
modern village, with several houses of a superior class. 
Yet some of it is very ancient. The portion of this character, 
however, is off the highway, and somewhat hid. And well 
it might; for one of its grand uses, in former times, was as 
a hiding-place. It was the home of smugglers. Many tales 
might be told of the daring adventures, hair-breadth escapes, 
and criminal discoveries in which its inmates were con¬ 
cerned. Some Dirk Hatteraick could easily be created out 
of these adventures, if we had a “ cove,” instead of these 
cozy biggings, to gratify the novelist’s love of the romantic. 
There are indeed coves, but admitting of no pictorial embel¬ 
lishment. They are in the form of deep pits beneath the 
floors, called Brandy Holes. Several of these, the size of an 
ordinary chamber, have been recently disclosed; the earth 
beneath the old dwellings being completely honey-combed 
by them. We have seen a letter, dated 15th April, 1789, 
that was taken out one of these, and in pretty good condi¬ 
tion, in which the brandy business is evidently the subject; 
though the language is sufficiently cautious and ambiguous 
to prevent detection. Similar excavations existed at Wallace- 
field. And in several houses in Loans, double walls might 
be traced in the lofts, where, in those lawless days, many a 
cask was secured. 


74 


LOANS. 


The landing of a cargo was a grand occasion. We have 
heard one horn and brought up about Troon, (a young son 
in a family of 22, and who died some time ago above four¬ 
score) describe these landings, apparently from personal 
observation as well as tradition :—A foreign craft is 
unfortunately stranded on the North Sands during the night. 
Before dawn many of the good people of Loans and neigh¬ 
bourhood are around her, like bees about their sugar dish. 
By the first streak of day they may be dimly discovered 
straggling across the warren to their “ bikes,” with the 
yellow treasure; or disappearing at the mouth of the glen— 
the inland route for the trade. As soon as the sun is up the 
faithful and loyal Laird of Fullarton is out on horseback to 
protect His Majesty’s interests. In his haste he is careful 
to let the last of his troublesome tenants out of the way; 
and to see the vessel gliding off by the rising tide and her 
lightened cargo. He loses no time in reporting to the law¬ 
ful officials that a craft of doubtful character had been seen 
in the bay that morning. And, with all speed, a watch is 
set to prevent her landing ! 

But a link still remains about Loans which connects it 
with days long before the art of smuggling was invented. 
There was a leper house at Prestwick called Kincase : some 
say established by Robert the Bruce, who, it is said, had 
been cured of leprosy by drinking of a mineral spring in the 
neighbourhood. It was most probably erected, however, 
before his time, as we have references to it by Blind Harry 


SUPPORTING LEPERS AND ROYALTY. 


75 


and others in the story of the early career of Wallace. The 
Bruce may have endowed it from some other property: his 
grandson, Robert II.—the ancient proprietor of this dis¬ 
trict—certainly endowed it from his. He burdened the 
land, which now includes the farms of Crossburn and Col- 
lenan, with the support of eight lepers; each to have eight 
bolls of meal and eight merks annually, or if there were but 
one he should have the whole.* To this day the rate con¬ 
tinues to be paid in kind; the former farm giving 56 bolls 
and 28 merks, and the latter making up the rest; while the 
proprietor, now the Duke of Portland, refunds this to the 
tenants in money. As the disease of leprosy has dis¬ 
appeared from the country, the rate goes to the Ayr Poor’s 
House. It might be that the name Loans was derived from 
this endowment—looked on as a loan. It is more probable, 
however, that, like several other villages in Scotland, it was 
so called from being on a quiet way side. Robert II. may 
have had a lodge here for his early sporting convenience, 
and to obtain a purer breath from the sea than he had at 
his castle of Dundonald. The village, at all events, as his 
ancestral and personal property, was, and still is, by those 
who give things their full name, called Robert Loan; the 
principal house is universally known as Robertloan cottage; 

* From a note in Scott’s “Lord of the Isles,” we learn that “ each 
leprous person had a drinking horn provided by the King [Bruce] 
which continued to be hereditary in the house to which it was first 
granted. One of these identical horns, of very curious workman¬ 
ship, was in the possession of the late Colonel Fullarton of that ilk,” 



76 


LOANS. 


and the district, embracing the two surrounding farms, is 
legally described as the “ Lands of Robert Lone,” or simply 
Robertland. We are thus kept in mind of the antiquity of 
the village—taking us back for some 500 years; and of its 
Royal Honours—bearing, as it does, the name of a King, its 
laird in those early days, whose descendants in the direct 
line occupied the Scottish Throne longer than any others, 
and ultimately were the first Kings who reigned over the 
entire British Empire. 

The population of Loans does not exceed 200. But it 
has an interest independent both of size and ancient dignity. 
From its situation it commands an extensive prospect, and 
the view both of it and from it is very pleasing. The 
grouping of its houses, as seen from the highway before you 
begin to ascend Dundonald Hill, would make a fine photo¬ 
graph or pencil sketch. You may pass through it and 
return to Troon by a “ loan,” with tasteful Muirliead and 
Wallacefield by the way. Or you may proceed direct to 
the summit of the hill; avoiding meanwhile the road that 
goes immediately behind the offices of Orossburn to Craiks- 
land farm and quarry. This may be taken at some other 
time, when you wish a quiet walk, or desire to study the 
geological structure of the Hill, and seek a few fossil stems 
and fruits. The quarry supplies the finest sandstone, largely 
employed for monumental and general sculpture work, and 
known widely, in these forms, over the country. 


CHAPTER XI. 


DUNDONALD HILL. 

Dundonald Hill has the strongest claims to be visited. 
Being isolated in the midst of a great plain and overlooking 
one of the noblest bays in the kingdom, it commands a wide 
circuit of land and water. Seldom can such a prospect be 
obtained with so little trouble. The carriage road leads 
almost to the summit—477 feet above the level of the sea, 
and within three miles of Troon—and during your ascent the 
growing breadth and beauty of the scene will induce you to 
linger lovingly and admiringly by the way. 

Reaching the highest point of the road, we make for the 
mound on the ridge to the right. This is the summit—the 
point of observation for the Government survey—called 
Warley Hill, or Wardlaw—the watch hill; probably from 
our Saxon fathers who may have made it their point of 
observation to ward off the foe. Long before the days of 
the Saxons, however, it seems to have been fortified; and 
traces of its ancient use as a stronghold may still be seen 
encircling the mound raised here by the Sappers and Miners. 
It had most probably a close connection with the larger 
Camp on the height immediately South of this, which has 
superior antiquarian claims, and of whose history we have 


78 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


something to say shortly. But before entering on the 
visions of the past, let us, from our present position, on this 
nearer height, make a somewhat careful SURVEY OF OUR 
Surroundings. 

The wide plains of Ayrshire lie at your feet, so beautifully 
fringed by these mountain slopes. Drink in the scene as a 
whole, and then let us endeavour to distinguish a few details. 
The smiling farmsteads, from Harpercroft seeking shelter at 
the opening of that little dell at your feet, are too numerous 
to particularise. They are scattered like primroses on the 
plain. There are also some fine estates close by; several of 
them, however, partially hid by embowering woods. Town- 
end, a solid, massive mansion, appears above the trees to the 
east of this—the property of Colonel Hay Boyd. Im¬ 
mediately above it the village of Symington reveals itself, 
only so far as to show that it is evidently a sweet as it is a 
most secluded retreat. When you drive through it, as you 
ought to do if possible, its old church, and quaint but cleanly 
dwellings, will be declared both pleasing and picturesque. 
The estate of Coodham, the property of Wm. Henry Houlds- 
worth, Esq., is seen a little beyond; the dark stone of the 
building, however, prevents its being conspicuous from this 
point, the site being chiefly indicated by the sheen from the 
little lake on the grounds. Dankeith, next in order, the 
property of Wm. Edward Utterson Kelso, is discovered 
mainly by its surrounding plantations. To the north, at 
the base of the hill, the top of the spire of the Parish Church 


SURROUNDINGS. 


79 


mysteriously appearing without the sub-structure, and the 
dark walls of the Castle perched on that isolated hillock, 
point out the sheltered spot where Dundonald hides itself 
from view. 

In the very heart of the great plain, about five miles dis¬ 
tant, and so prominent that its position cannot be mistaken, 
is the great manufacturing capital of the county, Kilmarnock. 
There it lies stretched before you in its full length, with its 
southern appendage of Riccarton. You can easily distinguish 
its spires, towers, and more prominent buildings; though 
they are occasionally obscured by the outpourings from its 
numerous chimney stalks. The murky veil, however, is 
more condensed a little to the right, marking the site of the 
iron-smelting Hurlford. Immediately beyond Hurlford you 
cannot fail to be attracted by the nodding hill of Loudoun, 
which has looked on more than one interesting scene in our 
national history. Nearly in a line with Loudoun Hill you 
can discover “ Loudoun’s bonnie woods and braes,” with a 
trace of the castle. Southward, on the horizon, the eye 
runs along Galston moor to the hills of Cumnock; and, in 
the extreme distance, to those of Kirkcudbright and Dum¬ 
fries. The pointed hill about the centre of the range is 
Cairntable, leading your thoughts, if not your dreams, 

“ To the moorland of mist where the martyrs lay.” 
Apparently toward the base of this, with a glass, you can 
see the houses of Mauchline like tombstones, peering out of 
the woods of Ballochmyle. The little white streak from 


80 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


some train, creeping slowly along the distant hills, may 
guide you to the spot. How constantly these trains, far 
and near, are seen wending their way through the County 
in every direction, appearing from this point like lively 
glow-worms ! 

Look for a moment due north. See how Ben Lomond 
stands out, head and shoulders, above the Renfrewshire 
hills. Close to it on the right, if the air is specially clear, 
you can see other two peaks: the one is Ben Ledi, the other 
Ben Voirlich. And a little to the left of Ben Lomond a 
rugged slip appears as if lying on the edge of the nearer 
hills. This is a cutting from the mountains of Loch Long, 
where, if you have been otherwise familiar with it, you may 
descry the famous Cobbler. 

As your eye runs along these nearer hills, bounding a 
plain beautifully interspersed with wood and field, or some 
hoary keep, you will detect with pleasure the varied signs of 
a teeming population. Dairy is discovered apparently at 
the base of the range, and is distinguished by the lofty spire 
of its new Parish Church. Kilwinning is a little nearer us, 
with the gable of its ancient Abbey rising above the village 
like a skeleton hand loath to vanish. And Irvine is seen 
with all its details fully exposed, just over the trees in the 
foreground. That long line of wood immediately beyond 
Irvine embraces the Eglinton grounds, in the midst of 
which you have a glimpse of the dome-shaped roof of 

<k 

Eglinton Castle. 


OLD IRELAND. 


81 




Such is the landward view from Dundonald Hill; and you 
will, at^ least, acknowledge that it is not limited. But when 
you now look toward the sea, you will find how much the 
height and distance “lend enchantment to the scene!” The 
graceful curve of the Bay, from Ardrossan to Turnberry, lies 
in unbroken outline like a map beneath you; while the 
horizon has considerably extended since you left the shore, 
disclosing some new objects of no small interest. Arran is 
not now your western boundary; though it still bulks most 
largely. At the northern extremity of that island you see 
two rounded peaks standing lovingly together. These are 
the Paps of Jura, leading your thoughts away to the 
"Western Isles. And from its southern extremity, above 
Pladda, you can see the Mull of Cantire; the little dot at 
the tip of it being Sanda island and lighthouse. But, more 
interesting still, in very favourable, though not altogether 
exceptional circumstances, on the sea-line beyond, like a low 
bank of clouds, you may discover the placid features of Old 
Ireland. It is her Fair Head, grey enough not with time 
but distance, on which you are looking. 

Surely now we have exhausted the sights from Dundonald 
Hill. We cannot rise higher, and, it may be thought, even 
though we were drawing largely on our imagination, we 
cannot see further. And yet you may; if you can venture 
up with the morning, when 

“ The rising sun o’er Galston moors 
Wi’ glorious light is glintin’ 

F 


82 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


or. if you can wait till the evening, when such sunsets may 
be seen as can only be equalled among the Hebrides. The 
sunsets may indeed be witnessed to nearly the same advan¬ 
tage without even leaving the shore ; where your horizon 
is but little less limited than on the Hill. Some of these 
are long photographed on the memory. Let us endeavour 
to recall one. It is a hot day in July, when the sky has 
appeared leaden, and the sun been invisible. Toward even¬ 
ing a bright spot is seen on the glassy sea, far to the north. 
It looks as if, from a rift in the clouds, a stream of golden 
dust were falling on a mirror. Gradually the spot enlarges 
to a plate; then swells to an inverted cup; elongates to a 
truncated pear; (“an apple of gold in a picture of silver”) 
and ultimately becomes a gently waving pillar of fire. The 
bright face of the sun—hitherto seen only in reflection 
beneath—now looks out from the bank of clouds above. 
As he gradually sinks behind the distant coast of Cowal, 
the pillared reflection begins again to contract. It shapes 
itself into various forms; amongst them into that of an 
exact image of the chalice. When the last tip of the sun 
disappears as a bright star, Arran is seen robed in gorgeous 
purple; the clouds, receiving the light from beneath, glow 
like a furnace; and the whole extent of these forty miles of 
water becomes a “ sea of glass mingled with fire.” A faint 
emblem of the “ far more exceeding even the eternal weight 
of glory.” 

But the scenes visible from Dundonald Hill carry the 


THE CAMPS. 


83 


thoughts much further than they carry the eye. They are 
full of memories of the distant past. As a more favourable 
position, however, for recalling these, let us proceed across 
the intervening dell to the neighbouring height about 300 
yards to the South. This height, while little if any inferior in 
the prospect it opens up to that from which we have taken 
our general survey—with a broad circular plateau presenting 
facilities for the largest pic-nic—is a charming retreat for 
the antiquarian and historian. It is the site of an ancient 
British Camp. Here you can clearly trace two large and 
nearly concentric rings. The inner ring—now formed of 
loose turf covered stones—appears like a faded wreathe 
crowning the summit. It is about a hundred yards in 
diameter, and includes a space of fully an acre and a half. 
The outer ring—not so perfectly circular, and lying a little 
further down, round the brow of the hill—is marked by 
what seems an ordinary stone fence raised on an older and 
broader foundation. It includes a space of fully ten acres, 
and was evidently meant as a shelter for an advanced post. 
Both rings indicate the line of very ancient walls, which 
our ancestors must have guarded when “ their bodies were 
painted in all the fantastic colours of barbarism.” It is, 
indeed, popularly known as the Boman Camp. But there 
are strong arguments against this tradition. A Roman 
Camp was always square; this is circular. The Roman 
Legions uniformly intrenched themselves on the plain ; here 
we are on an elevation rising to a considerable height above 


84 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


extensive plains. It does not, however, follow that the 
Romans had nothing to do with this site. They may have 
used it as an important point of observation, and it may 
have been the scene of sanguinary struggles between them 
and our forefathers. This is all the more probable as we 
have evident traces of the great Conquerors in a continuous 
chain from the South to the North of the county, passing 
within a mile of the base of the Hill. A branch of their 
main road into Scotland, through Annandale, entered the 
county by Dalmellington, and may still be followed about 
two miles from Ayr; Roman remains have been found at 
St. Quivox, apparently indicating the existence of a Camp 
there; Roman trenches appear again near Tarbolton; a 
Roman bath, or as Burton thinks, an oven after the pattern 
of their baths at home, was discovered at Newfield, just 
below us; and other relics are known at Irvine and onwards. 
The Romans had, therefore, most likely, some connection 
with this spot; but certainly not as their camp. It is some¬ 
times referred to as a Danish Camp. And it is very pro¬ 
bable that the pirate conquerors, who often overran this 
portion of Strathclyde, would take possession of a stronghold 
commanding such a sweep both of land and sea. Their 
Norse descendants, too, might pay it a passing visit when 
they made their last and greatest attempt to reconquer the 
West. When these Norwegians invaded Scotland, fully six 
hundred years ago, after ravaging the Western Isles and the 
Lochs off the Clyde, there is good reason to believe—though 


BRITONS, ROMANS, AND DANES. 


85 


both Tytler and Burton overlook the fact—that a part of 
the navy entered the bay of Ayr; while the main portion 
remained under shelter of the Cumbraes. A band of 
warriors might venture to land, not improbably at Troon 
point, whose facilities for this purpose would hardly fail to 
be a tradition among them, and where they would fear no 
immediate opposition. They might thus make for Dun- 
donald Hill as a favourable outpost and point of observa¬ 
tion from whence they might watch the fleet, have the 
earliest intelligence, and take the speediest advantage of its 
triumph. How different the sight they here witnessed from 
what they confidently looked for! The celebrated battle of 
Largs was fought, when Haco’s forces, consisting of a 
hundred vessels, chiefly large ones, bearing a numerous and 
powerful army, the flower of Northern Europe, were 
defeated. The defeat might well be discovered from this 
“ watch-hill,” either by telegraph from some blazing beacon 
on the little Cumbrae, or, more likely, by tracing the ships 
of the fleet, diminished and broken by the fierce storm, yet 
struggling to round Pladda and Cantire, that they might 
reach their ocean-highway homeward. How suddenly, at 
this sight, the courage of the garrison in the camp would 
“ fall into their heels,” as they hastily sought their ships, to 
return no more until peaceful commerce should bring them 
again to our shores. 

All these visitors, however, were only, like the cuckoo, 
using the nest built by others. The Camp was undoubtedly 


8G 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


a Fort or Dun , when some Donald reigned supreme in these 
parts, before even the misty period of Donald the first 
Christian King, and before Romans, or Saxons, or Danes 
succeeded in driving him and his subject Celts to their 
Highland fastnesses. The name Clavin hills, which is still 
sometimes given to the entire range, while the farm on 
which the Camp stands is called Clevance, formerly Clavins, 
is supposed to come from the Gaelic Clai Bhein, signifying 
broadswords; thus pointing to them as scenes of warfare in 
the days when the tongue of the ancient Briton prevailed, 
and gave names to the land. 

We could fain linger on later historical associations con¬ 
nected with the more distant scenes before us. Among 
them there are interesting memories of the Heroic period. 
Wallace, according to Blind Harry, was familiar with the 
district, often fishing, and sometimes fighting single handed, 
on the banks of the Irvine; afterwards appearing by that 
stream, ready to lead to victory the newly formed Scottish 
army which had mustered there, when he was unhappily 
deserted by contending nobles. The Wallace Tower and 
colossal statue at Ayr, and the Wallace Monument, rising 
on the height of Barnweil, seen so conspicuously from this 
just beyond Symington, are visible testimonies to the 
historical aud traditional relation of the great hero with the 
surrounding country. In his own time that relation was 
proverbial; as we find the Earl of Dunbar, when summoned 
by Wallace to attend a convention at Perth, refusing, and 


WARRIORS, REFORMERS, COVENANTERS. 


87 


contemptuously calling him the “ King of Kyle.”—Robert 
the Bruce, too, who was known as Earl of Carrick, before 
he reached the Throne, was intimately associated with some 
of these scenes. Turnberry, the most southerly point of 
Ayrshire seen from this seaward, was the home of his 
mother, and has the strongest claims to be acknowledged as 
the birthplace of the king. In its neighbourhood, at least, 
he spent his early years; afterwards enduring some of his 
greatest hardships among those hills of Carrick, where he 
long wandered as a fugitive, keenly pursued by his enemies? 
and hunted by their bloodhounds; while on this side of 
Loudoun Hill he gained his first success, when 

“ Such news o’er Scotland’s hills triumphant rode, 

When ’gainst the invaders turn’d the battle’s scale ; 

When Bruce’s banner had victorious flow’d 
O’er Loudoun’s mountains, and in Ury’s vale.” 

From our present point of view we have also memories of 
the great Religious movements of our country. On these 
plains dwelt a peculiar people—Reformers fully a century 
before the Reformation, by whom religious liberty was 
early and widely diffused throughout the West—the 
Lollards of Kyle,* with an account of whom John Knox 
opens his graphic “ History of the Reformation.” And 
among these hills were most of the Covenanting risings and 
persecutions so disastrous to those engaged in them but so 

* It is amusing to notice how these Lollards, who derived their 
name as singers of the gospel, from Bohemia in the days of Huss, 
are seriously confounded by Aiton with Low lairds ! 



88 


DUNDONALD HILL. 


blessed to us. Loudoun Hill, on its other side, looks 
down on the scene of the battle of Drumclog, where the 
bloody Claverhouse met with his stinging defeat, escaping 
only by the swiftness of his horse, and saw the first triumph 
of the Covenanting cause, which, “ though baffled oft,” has 
since been won. There are here also numerous Poetical 
memories. Not to speak of the minor poets who are ever 
and anon cropping up in these quarters, displaying con¬ 
siderable merit; and referring only to such a one of note as 
James Montgomerie—born at Irvine, though having his 
life and genius developed elsewhere—most of these scenes 
are connected with the brilliant lines and sad life of “ Coila’s 
Bard.” His birth and early history are recalled by that 
lovely view of Ayr and the woods beyond : his plunging 
into the whirlpool of life, and his first great sorrow—on 
occasion of his father’s death, when there were hopeful signs 
of a blessed change in his character, alas! so soon blasted- 
are recalled by the green fields a little beyond Barnweil, 
where is the farm of Lochlea: his sad attempts to make 
himself a business man are recalled by the sight of Irvine : 
his unsuccessful efforts at the plough, but most numerous 
and successful efforts with the pen, are recalled by the 
distant slopes a little on this side of Mauchline, where, 
perhaps, with a glass, you may detect the farm of Mossgiel : 
and his first appearance before the world must ever be 
associated with the worthy town of Kilmarnock, whose 
press first gave him the wings, which, so often renewed in 


POETS. 


89 


divers forms since, have carried his glowing thoughts over 
the globe, and will continue to carry them down through 
the generations. But unfortunately Burns never mentions 
either Troon or Dundonald. We are therefore warranted in 
thus dismissing him with a single sentence. And we can 
allow nothing else to induce us to linger longer or go further 
beyond our circumscribed sphere. We must be content to 
dwell only on spots within the compass of the two villages. 
And in these we shall find memories enough and to spare. 


CHAPTER XII. 


DUNDONALD VILLAGE. 

By Dundonald Hill you may proceed to tlie village—a mile 
from the highest point of the road, and four from Troon. 
Some may think the camp sufficient for one day. Others, 
with ordinary strength, will go on, though walking. In 
driving direct to Dundonald you may choose either of two 
roads which go round the base of the Hill on opposite sides; 
the one by the finely turretted Carreath House, the property 
of J. S. Deans Campbell, Esq., and the other by Hillhouse. 
These, though each about a mile longer than that by the 
Hill, are more level, and may be both overtaken in one 
trip, giving a pleasing variety. 

The village of Dundonald is finely sheltered, and many 
feeble constitutions seek and find refreshment here. It is 
small, the population being only 277—little more than half 
of what it was about a quarter of a century ago. But it is 
the loveliest in Ayrshire. With its surroundings it has often 
been transferred to the canvas, proving an object of attraction 
at Royal Society and other Exhibitions. The leading feature 
in the landscape is the Castle—that noble cubic pile of ruins 
—with the rugged green knoll on which it stands. You 
may make for it at once. No better spot to take in leisurely 


SURROUNDINGS. 


91 


the whole scene, and perhaps something more strengthening 
for the corporeal frame. You will look down with delight 
on these snugly sheltered and fruitful gardens behind the 
clean and comfortable cottages; the glittering green-houses, 
here and there, showing taste and means. The Parish 
Church is a commanding object; and the Manse by its side, 
excluded from view on the highway in that sylvan retreat, 
is here beautifully exposed. What a pity that both Free 
Church and Manse are buried out of sight from almost every 
point! True enough, they are buried in beauty; and if you 
“sought them out very diligently and found them,” you 
would be delighted with the little Eden in which they are 
placed. But in these days of indifference, would it not be 
better that the Church should seek out the wanderer rather 
than itself require to be sought out ? 

A mile beyond the village, and just over it, you see the 
top of Newfield House, the Seat of William Finnie, Esq,, 
late M.P. for North Ayrshire. The estate was long 
occupied by the Wallaces; was purchased in 1783 by Major 
Crauford, who had just then returned from India with 
laurels won in the wars there; and came into the possession 
of the present family about 1843. From the Castle hill 
you look chiefly into the gardens; the House, a very hand¬ 
some building, only showing a portion of its turretted roof 
above the wood. From a height called Mount William, at 
a corner of the estate, there is a charming view of distant 
mountain and sea, with Dundonald Hill and village and 


92 


DUNDONALD VILLAGE. 


craggy and castellated surroundings, standing out in the 
foreground in noble relief. 

A little further east than Newfield is Fairlie House, lately 
the Seat of Charles C. Fairlie, who was descended from an 
ancient family, understood to have been connected with the 
Stewarts by one of the sons of Robert II. It is now the 
property of William C. S. Cunningham, Esq. 

Auchans, a chaste modern structure, with its grounds 
smiling sweetly just beneath you on the left, is the residence 
of the Honourable Gr. R. Vernon, Commissioner to the Earl 
of Eglinton. This House was evidently meant to take the 
place of the antique building which bears the same name— 
hid by the wooded bank behind you, and of which we have 
much to say ere we leave this neighbourhood. It was well, 
when greater comfort was needed than the old dwelling 
afforded, that the historical walls were spared, and this spot 
chosen for the new building. 

About a mile beyond Auchans, and in the same direction, 
you look into the village of Drybridge, where there is a 
station on the Kilmarnock and Troon direct Line, and your 
nearest point if you would come here by rail. The school- 
house—built and supported chiefly by Mrs. Boyle of 
Shewalton—is its characteristic feature. But its main 
attraction to a stranger is derived from its being situated on 
a fine reach of the Irvine, and at the corner of the extensive 
policies of Shewalton. The family inheriting this estate 
has been long and favourably known, not only in the county, 


ITS ANTIQUITY. 


93 


but in the country generally. The late proprietor, Patrick 
Boyle, Esq., who died in 1874, besides holding other offices, 
was for ten years Convener of the County. His father, the 
Bight Honourable David Boyle, connected by marriage with 
Alexander, tenth Earl of Eglinton, was Lord Justice- 
General, and President of the Court of Session, and is 
commemorated by a handsome statue in High Street, Irvine. 
The present proprietor is Captain David Boyle, R.N. In 
driving from Troon you may make a detour by the road 
which, for fully a mile, skirts these policies. 

The glimpse behind Dundonald is very beautiful. The 
finely wooded and precipitous cliff is a noble background. 
If the deep gully at the foot of it were occupied by a lake, 
with a fisherman’s hut on its banks, as it once was, you 
could imagine the scene a fair Highland fragment lingering 
on the lowland borders. The fancy would be aided if you 
could see the “ deer and the roe lightly bounding together,” 
as they often have been seen by not a few still residing in 
the neighbourhood. How grandly this romantic little spot 
is enlivened and lighted up by the bright glimpse of the sea 
and the distant peaks of Arran ! 

The village is not so modern as it seems. It must have, 
from time to time, renewed its youth, while its grim over¬ 
seer, the Castle, only grew more hoary. It is said to have 
stood originally in the hollow under the shadow of the cliffs, 
clinging if not cringing more closely at the foot of the 
Baronial and Royal Stronghold. There it would have 


94 


DUNDONALD VILLAGE, 


superior protection; and thus built on the margin of the 
little lake—a sheet generally of unruffled silver reflecting 
the ancient dwellings—it might have been even more 
picturesque if less salubrious than at present. We find 
references to it from a very early period. The Church, with 
that of Crosbie, was granted by Walter, the Second Steward, 
to the Gilbertine Convent in 1229. In 1238, the monastery 
of Paisley received the patronage of the Church of Dun- 
donald, and “ an annuity of six clialders of meal for the 
support of a Priest to celebrate Divine Service for the soul 
of Robert Bruce, Lord of Annandale.” This Lord of 
Annandale was the grandfather of the great deliverer of 
Scotland, and the deed of affectionate superstition may have 
happily prepared the way for a union, fully seventy years 
afterwards, which led to the Stewards inheriting the crown 
of the Bruce. At all events it formed or cemented a union 
between Dundonald and Paisley, which was confirmed by a 
deed of Pope Clement IV., in 1265, and lasted till the 
Reformation. 

The Eglinton family (Montgomeries), long before they 
possessed the village, seem to have had a connection with 
the Church, as we gather from an unhappy divorce drawn 
up in 1565 concluding thus:—“In witnes herof to thir 
presentis subscruit as folloves, my seil is hereto affixt at 
Eglintoun the twenty-five day of October in the zeir of God 
1“ V o and thre scoir fyve zeirs, befoir thir witnes Master 
Heu Montgomery, Vicar of Dunonald.” 


A ROYAL BURGH. 


95 


The village and surrounding property came into the 
hands of Sir William Cochrane, who obtained a charter 
from Charles I., in 1638, securing to him the lands of 
Dundonald; and in this charter there is a clause erecting 
the Kirkton of Dundonald into a free burgh of Barony (Act 
of Par. V., 656 !) How has this important privilege been 
despised or neglected ? . Surely the good townspeople need not 
have supposed that their legal honours were lost because the 
King who granted them lost his head ! The Cochranes, 
under that Royal grant, retained their possessions till 1726, 
when the property was joined, as it still is, to the Eglinton 
Estates. 

In the Parish Register of Dundonald, which seems to 
have been pretty carefully kept from 1602 onwards, there 
are some curious scraps illustrative of the domestic and 
ecclesiastical character of the times. It records numerous 
trials for withcraft, and other extinct crimes, such as “ for 
noth yoking the pleuch on Yule day,” and “ for ane slanderous 
taill that the late minister of Kilwinning now departit this 
life was eardit with his mouth doun, and that he confessit 
that the minister of Ayr and Irvine and he had the wyt of 
all the ill wedder the year.” It also contains a much more 
pleasing document, the local branch of the Solemn League 
and Covenant, with 222 signatures attached, and dated 
1638. But, unfortunately for the reputation of the educa¬ 
tion scheme of those days, 179 signed this paper by proxy, 
“ because the could not wryt themselfs.” This revelation of 


96 


DUNDONALD VILLAGE. 


local scholarship gave rise two years afterwards to the 
formation of the Parish School—Dundonald having ap¬ 
parently been overlooked in the great work of Knox, but 
yet not delaying till the Parliamentary Act of 1696, which 
enforced the establishment of such schools all over the 
country. In forming this Parish School the community 
and Kirk Session passed a local Bill, without any conscience 
clause, but with a compulsory one sufficiently stringent for 
the teacher at least. His hours were fixed “ From sunrise 
to sunset in winter months, and in summer from seven 
o’clock morning till six evening, every day of the week 
except Sabbath, when he was always to be present in church 
with the scholars around him to see that they conducted 
themselves with propriety, and gave due attention to the 
ordinances of religion, of which examination on the follow¬ 
ing day was strictly to be made.” This Code also determined 
“ the kind of punishment, even the particular kind of birch 
to be used, with the exact parts of the body to which it was 
to be applied.” The same authority was careful in laying 
down the law for parents, as well as for children, in church. 
We find a record of 16th May, 1642, whereby “The session 
ordained that no woman be suffered to sit in kirk in sommer 
with plyds on their heids, because it is a cleuck to their 
sleiping in tyme of sermon; and desyred the minister to 
exhort them gravelie the next day to observe the same.” 
Might not such an ordinance be profitably re-enacted for 
our “ sommers”—applicable both to natives and visitors ? 


OLD ROMISH BELL IN A NEW POSITION. 


97 


The “ Kirk” referred to in the above document, has since 
disappeared. The present structure dates from 1803. The 
only trace of the corroding tooth of time left upon it was 
caused by a thunderbolt in 1872, when a ball, entering by 
the spire, so injured the roof, and endangered the building, 
that the congregation was deprived of the use of it for 
several weeks, and found shelter for the while in the Free 
Church. Strange enough the Free Church, which was 
erected immediately after the Disruption, has given 
permanent shelter to another belonging of the Old Kirk. It 
retains the original bell which summoned many a generation 
to public worship. An inscription, still legible on this bell ? 
gives it a peculiar interest. We are indebted to Dr. 
Alexander, of Dundonald, for a careful facsimile , which our 
printer has done his best to re-produce, though characters 
identical with those of the inscription could not be 
obtained :— 

'panctc epttUc ora pro nobis anno tint 

0 <= «= 

m me lx.vx.vri“ xt. 

The “ Saint Egidius pray for us” is plain enough, but the 
date seems doubtful. Dr. Alexander reads it, as above, 
1495. The relic was long retained at Newfield, coming in¬ 
to its present position after the death of Colonel Crawfurd. 
Its tones, familiar to worshippers some four hundred years 

ago, and associated with the Mass and the Virgin, are now 

G 



98 


DUNDONALD VILLAGE. 


regularly heard calling the faithful followers of Knox to 
their pure and simple service, without any tendency to bring 
back with it the whole Romish ritual. 

There are only two Churches in Dundonald. The Rev, 
John Sime is minister of the Parish Church ; and the Rev. 
William Ross minister of the Free Church.* The Parish 


* The following is a list of ministers of Dundonald Parish Church 
since the Reformation, with the dates of admission, kindly furnished 
us by Mr. Sime :— 


Robert Burn, 
1572 —George Campbell. 

1576 —David Mylne. 

1618— Alex. Sibbald, A.M. 

1625 —Robert Ramsay, A.M. 
1642 —Gabriel Maxwel, A.M. 
1672 —John Osburn, A.M. 

1672 —John Hutcheson. 

1682 —John Boyle, A.M. 

1688 —James Boog. 

X Previously settled a 


Reader, 1567. 

1698— William Lindsay. 

1717— James Cowan. 

1724 —Joseph Keornachan. 
1729 —HamiltonKennedy,A.M. 
1732 —Thomas Walker, A.M. 
1783— Robert Duncan. 

1816 —John Macleod, D.D. 

1841 —Alexander Willison. 
1866— John Sime. X 
Kilwinning in 1864. 


And the following is a list of ministers of the Free Church since 
the Disruption, kindly furnished us by Dr. Alexander :— 

1st.—Rev. Andrew Cunningham; ordained, August 10th, 1843; 
translated to Eccles, December, 1844. 

2nd.— David Simpson ; ordained, Nov. 5tli, 1846 ; removed, 1861. 

3rd.— John Kelman ; placed, 1862; translated to Leith, Sep¬ 
tember, 1866. 

4th.— Alexander M. Craig; ordained, March, 1867 ; translated 
to Sprouston, August, 1872. 

5tli. —William Ross ; ordained, April, 1873. 




99 


“THE cobbler beyond his last.” 

School lias shared in the stimulus imparted by the Scottish 
Education Act of 1872, having been enlarged by the Board 
at an expense of £600, so as to give additional accommo¬ 
dation for 50 scholars; and is henceforth to be known as 
the Dundonald Public School. 

There is a Post Office in the Village, under Kilmarnock. 
But there are no public works. Half-a-century ago, how¬ 
ever, it had both its factory and its fair. The spinning 
factory "was known as its “Jennie House,” and employed a 
good many hands of all ages and both sexes. The Dundon¬ 
ald of that period, in its homely and rougher characters, is 
sufficiently minutely described in a volume entitled, “ The 
Retrospect of an Artist’s Life,” by J. K. Hunter. The 
author, who died in 1873, was born in the neighbourhood, 
and bred to the shoemaking trade in Dundonald. His 
most successful effort with the brush was a portrait of him¬ 
self, with the easel somewhat prominent, and the “ last ” in 
the shade, entitled, “The Cobbler beyond his Last;” which 
appeared in the West of Scotland Academy's Exhibition 
in Glasgow. His cards were inscribed F.R.S., &c., in which 
character he also sought to appear in the Exhibition cata¬ 
logue, but, when asked by the committee for his credentials 
as a Fellow of the Royal Society, he replied that he did 
not mean that at all, but First-Rate Shoemaker and Cobbler. 
This was sufficiently characteristic of the man, as is his 
graphic, but rather garrulous delineations of the “ Men and 
Manners of the past half-century” in and around Dundonald. 


CHAPTER XIII. 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 

Having taken our survey from the Castle Hill, looking 
down on the modern village and back on the ancient one, 
we must now turn to the Castle itself. It has no archi¬ 
tectural beauty, and its present cubic form gives it rather a 
heavy appearance. But its massive walls, in some parts 
seven or eight feet thick, have a solidity and strength which 
have enabled it, for many centuries, so largely to defy the 
war of elements, if not the elements of war. Perched on 
this isolated knoll, which rises abruptly on all sides to a 
height of about 80 feet, and standing out from the dark 
wooded clitfs behind, its situation is peculiar and imposing. 
In early times the knoll must have been important for 
defensive purposes, and still gives the building a command¬ 
ing position, enabling it to overlook the greater portion of 
the Firth of Clyde, the whole of North Ayrshire, and the 
hills of Renfrewshire, with the distant heights that fringe 
the extensive plains beyond. 

The leading feature of the Castle internally is the great 
arched Hall, about 58 feet by 24. The arch is upwards 
of 40 feet above the present floor, and although the light 
breaks through it at one or two points, it has, as a whole, 


THE VENERABLE RUIN. 


101 


signs of stability which may enable it to stand the storms 
of centuries to come. The Hall was evidently divided, at 
one time, into several apartments, with a floor about half 
way up, of which there are obvious indications along the 
Avails. The Chambers over the Hall, which are now some- 
Avhat difficult of access, but of which you may obtain a 
glimpse from the outside, must also have been arched, as 
you can clearly trace the abutments with carved springers.* 
On the outside wall, facing the Avoods, you can trace, in 
several places, the Stewart arms ; and in a corner of this wall 
you Avill find tA\ r o lions, sometimes called rampant, but not 
in the fierce style of more recent times, as they face each 
other on all fours, and the only indications of ferocity are in 
their tails. 

After you have examined these features, perhaps made 
the arched hall ring Avith your voice, peeped into the 
dungeon, searched for any trace of the chapel dedicated to 
St. Ninian, or perched yourself on some crumbling corner 
for a Avider prospect, you may submit to a little historical 
disquisition on the venerable ruin. And Avell it deserves 
this. For the Castle, be it known, is no obscure baronial 


* The prominence of the arch in the entire building seems to have 
impressed the rustic mind, as the following doggerel, familiar from 
childhood to many in Ayrshire, shews :— 

“ There is a Castle in the West, 

Its name is Donald din, 

There’s no a nail in a’ its roof, 

Nor yet a wooden pin.” 



102 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


keep. It was the cradle of the great STEWART dynasty. 
Something of the early history of the dynasty, and especially 
of that member of it who founded the Royal line, and is so 
closely connected with these scenes around, we must 
remember, if we would have the interest we ought to have 
in these walls, and realise both their dignity and antiquity. 

The family was originally Norman, as were most of the 
aristocracy in England and the lowlands of Scotland after 
the Conquest. It was, indeed, long customary to give it a 
Celtic origin, and trace it to Banquo, thane of Locliaber, in 
the days of King Duncan. Shakespeare evidently adopted 
this tradition when he put these words into the mouth of the 
witches—making them the key of his tragedy of Macbeth— 
“ All hail Macbeth thou shalt be King hereafter; ” and to 
Banquo, “Thou slialt get Kings though there be none.” 
But there is no evidence that these sayings, and Banquo’s 
musings. “ Myself shall be the root and father of many 
Kings,” were ever either real or realised. The earliest doc¬ 
umentary evidence regarding the Stewarts goes no farther 
back than the Conquest—far enough; and some sixty or 
eighty years afterwards we can confidently connect the 
family with the district, and even with this Castle. We 
learn that one Alan, son of Flahald, came into England 
with William the Conqueror and was at the battle of 
Hastings ; and that his second son Walter afterwards pro¬ 
ceeded to Scotland as a retainer of David I.—the conquer¬ 
ors of the South thus coming as guests and Royal re- 


CRADLE OF THE STEWART DYNASTY. 


103 


tainers to the North. This monarch, known as Saint David, 
and described by one of his descendants as “ ane sore sanct 
for the crown ” because of his liberality to the Church, 
seems to have been equally liberal to his Civil servants. 
Having appointed Walter as his steward or keeper of his 
house—an office ultimately expanding into something like 
that of Chancellor of the Exchequer—he granted him exten¬ 
sive territories in Bute, Cowal &c. ; also in Renfrewshire, 
then known as Stratligrif, and in this part of Ayrshire, since 
known after the family, even to this day, as Kyle Stewart. 

Dundonald Castle was the principal, and probably for a 
while the only, residence of this first Lord High Steward of 
Scotland. It was most likely built by him, as it was early 
known as “ his Castle by the Sea,” and still retains indica¬ 
tions of its origin in the faded outlines, which we have 
referred to, of the Stewart arms. The erection may have 
been commenced shortly after he entered on his possessions 
—somewhere between 1124 and 1153, the years which 
measure the reign of his liberal patron. Walter dwelt 
much here with his wife Eschine, a worthy Saxon Lady, 
whom he brought from the Borders, her father’s name 
occurring in charters, which imply that he was an extensive 
proprietor in Roxburghshire, and that his daughter was his 
only child and heir. When the gallant Knight took his 
bride home these walls would be fresh from the chisel; 
and, rising to a loftier height than now, with turrets and 
battlements standing out from the roof, they must have had 


104 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


an imposing appearance, and would be seen from afar. 
Walter might well point them out proudly to his bride as 
soon as the couple had crossed the Renfrewshire hills. We 
cannot dilate, however, on their feelings without, or their 
domestic happiness within; for dry charters, our only 
guides in this early period, give no hints on such points. 
But we may reasonably conclude that the first, and perhaps 
many others who afterwards inherited the High Steward¬ 
ship, were cradled in this Castle—the fond parents little 
dreaming of the name and fame of their later descendants. 
We can realise the young hopefuls sporting on these wooded 
heights; venturing to the Barassie shore to lave their 
youthful limbs in the sea; and taking to the rod or 
launching their primitive craft from the Troon Point. And 
we may say with confidence that Lord and Lady Steward 
lived in harmony, and in piety according to their knowledge. 
Walter shewed his interest in ecclesiastical affairs by 
supporting, and probably also founding, the religious houses 
at Prestwick and Monkton; of whose existence we are 
made acquainted for the first time in his charters. He calls 
the former “my burgh of Prestwick.” But he doubtless 
felt that a gift of the barren soil at the mouth of the Pow 
Burn was a small token of his interest in the Monks of his 
day, and hence he sought to make better provision for them 
on a fertile bend of the White Cart, where he founded the 
Abbey, round which rose the thriving burgh of Paisley. 
Eschine gave liberally of her paternal estates for the benefit 


THE EIRST LORD AND LADY STEWART. 


105 


of the Abbeys of Kelso and Melrose—in her native district; 
and also for that of Paisley, in honour of her husband, as 
well as for the Church. On her death Walter retired from 
State affairs, and became a Monk at Melrose, where he died 
in 1177. His dust was carried to the Abbey he had 
founded, as the first precious deposit at a spot where the 
dust of his descendants, for many generations, was after¬ 
wards laid. 

His son Alan succeeded him. Regarding this second 
High Steward, we know little except that he was a favourite 
at the Court of William the Lion and bestowed many gifts 
on the Abbey which his father had made doubly sacred to 
him. Of his relation to this Castle, historians and old 
chroniclers, whom we have searched, are silent. His son, 
another Walter, became heir to the High Stewardship, in 
1204, while residing at Dundonald Castle ; which suggests 
the jwobability that his father died here, as the two events 
must have occurred simultaneously. Besides continuing in 
the hereditary office of his fathers, this Walter, who 
emerges pretty prominently into general history, was 
appointed by Alexander II., in 1230, Justiciary of Scotland, 
“ on August 24th, being the King’s birth-day,” and was 
entitled “ of Dundonald,” as an old writer, Noble, says, 
“from making that his usual residence.” We may be 
excused such minuteness regarding this date, as it was the 
first time that any one had been honoured by deriving a 
title from Dundonald. It was not, however, the last time ; 


106 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


for the name has been borne by warriors, statesmen, men of 
letters, and naval heroes, down to our own days; not to 
speak of one who laid it aside only when he obtained Royal 
Honours ! We may here notice that Walter, the first to 
take the designation of Dundonald for himself and his 
heirs, was also the first to give that of Stewart to all his 
descendants. Steward had hitherto been an official designa¬ 
tion, but from that time, with a little sharpening in the 
terminal letter, it became a patronimic. How familiar the 
country has since been with it for so many centuries, as 
borne by peasants and princes, by Royal Roberts and 
Jameses, by unfortunate Charles and poor Mary ! It was 
toned down, through French influence to Stuart, but the 
old Saxon form of the word largely prevails. The office of 
Steward was afterwards vested in the heir-apparent to the 
Crown for ever , so that the Prince of Wales has now the 
title, whether or not he makes it apparent. 

Alexander the fourth Steward, also designated of Dun¬ 
donald, was the bravest of the family, and one of Scotland’s 
greatest sons, but living at too early a period to be well 
known now. He joined the Crusade under Louis of France 
in 1248, and shewed his courage in many a well fought 
though fruitless battle in Palestine. At home his bravery 
was displayed in a more profitable field, as he commanded 
at the battle of Largs, where he was largely instrumental 
in ridding his country of the Danish invaders. His name, 
and that of another hero who fell on the field, are the only 


TIIE FIRST STEWART KING. 


107 


two that have been handed down to us in connection with 
that conflict. 

James, the fifth Steward, was one of the regents, or 
guardians, appointed at the beginning of the troublous times 
immediately preceding the days of Wallace. Walter, the 
sixth Steward, was among the first to join the standard of 
Wallace when his gathering forces came into the West— 
though he was one of those who deserted the patriot at 
Irvine, and signed the unhappy treaty there; resuming his 
right place, however, by leaving the English ranks at the 
battle of Stirling, and taking part with his victorious 
countrymen in the triumphs of the day. He was also one 
of the principal leaders of the Scottish army at Bannock¬ 
burn. Shortly after that battle, and probably as a reward 
for his prowess, he received the hand of Marjory, eldest 
daughter of the Bruce. The only child of this union was 
ROBERT BRUCE STEWART, called after his famous 
grandfather by the mother’s side. 

All the members of this ancient family must have been 
familiar with Dundonald Castle. But it is around this 
ROBERT, Lord of Kyle, who became the seventh High 
Steward, and ultimately, through his mother, ascended the 
Scottish throne—the first of the Stewart Kings—that the 
most minute and interesting associations connected with the 
Castle, gather. It was essentially his home, witnessing his 
sweetest joys and the close of all his sorrows. It was not in¬ 
deed the scene of his birth. Neither castle nor cot in the land 


108 


DUNDONALD CASTLE 


had this honour, but the blue canopy of heaven. He was born 
in unusual and specially trying circumstances. His mother, 
with the natural daring of her race, had been hunting in the 
neighbourhood of Paisley, and was returning to Renfrew, 
whose Castle was then a favourite residence of her husband, 
when, by a fall from her horse, her neck was dislocated, and 

she died on the spot. The Caesarean operation was resorted 

■ 

to, and the child lived ; first breathing his native air where 
his mother breathed her last. By such a tender tie, so 
nearly snapped, were the Stewarts brought to the thrones 
they so long occupied. * 

Having never known a mother’s care, at twelve years 
of age he lost his father. He was in the heat of the 
battle of Hallidon Hill when only seventeen; immediately 
after, was a disinherited wanderer in his ancestral posses¬ 
sions in Bute, while the English, under Edward III, and the 
traitorous Baliol, overran Scotland; left his hidings, and by 
some exploits of considerable daring, beginning with taking 


* This story has not passed unquestioned (and what event in 
history has escaped that ordeal ?) but in spite of erroneous traditions 
which have gathered round it, we may well receive what we have 
recorded of it as having good evidence in its support. The dust of this 
daughter of the Bruce lies in St. Mirren’s Chapel, in the Sounding 
Aisle of the Paisley Abbey, where her effigy may still be seen in the 
attitude of prayer, resting on an altar tomb. Paisley has been lately 
reminded of the incident in a picture of the death of Marjory Bruce, 
which appears in the Mechanics’ Hall, though we can scarcely say 
that, as a work of art, it is altogether worthy of the place it occupies 
in that noble Institute—the splendid gift of Sir Peter Coats. 



HOME OF ROBERT II. 


109 


Dunoon Castle, and surprising that of Dumbarton, roused 
his countrymen and regained the West; was appointed 
Regent, when only nineteen years of age ; became the chief 
instrument in expelling the English from the whole country; 
procured the return of David II. from France; was again 
appointed Regent during David’s captivity in England; 
and, on the release of David, was cast into prison by that 
wretched monarch, where he remained for several years. It 
was on the death of David, who was childless, that Robert 
ascended the throne. By that time he had reached the 
goodly age of fifty-five. He reigned for about twenty years, 
and in the midst of the cares of state made this castle a 
kind of Balmoral: for during that whole period (1371-1390) 
numerous charters for all parts of the kingdom are dated 
from Dundonald. Historians complain of his undue fond¬ 
ness for it. He doubtless loved the spot; may we say for 
its beauty ? At all events for its early and sweet memories. 
It was for generations the inheritance of his fathers; and 
much of his own childhood would be spent here. 

Here also he brought his first bride, when his hopes of 
the throne were few and faint. This wife was Elizabeth 
Mure of Rowallan. Her birthplace is still pointed out at 
an old ruined tower, close by the present Rowallan Castle—• 
situated a little off the high road between Kilmaurs and 
Fenwick. The marriage was celebrated by “ Roger M‘Adam, 
Priest of Ladie Mary’s Chapel,” generally called Lady Kirk, 
about five or six miles from Dundonald, where there is the 


110 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


picturesque bell tower and other ruins to which we referred 
in connection with Lady Isle. From this Kirk to the 
Castle, on foot and on horseback, a jovial company might 
have been seen crossing the country by Symington, passing 
through our loyal village of the Stewards amidst the 
enthusiastic cheers of its inhabitants, and climbing these 
steeps with tripping step. The old halls doubtless rang 
with the merry-making, and the scenes around were those 
where the honeymoon shone on the happy pair. Old Noble, 
indeed, speaks of the Castle as the scene of the marriage 
itself. “Robert,” he says, “when a young man, was capti¬ 
vated by the beautiful Elizabeth [Buchanan calls her 
exceedingly beautiful], * * * and prevailed on his fair 

cousin to forsake her father’s residence and take up her 
abode in his Castle of Dundonald, where they were privately 
married,” &c. Lady Kirk, however, has superior claims to 
the honour. 

What a “pother” this marriage created for centuries 
afterwards! Innumerable documents of enormous legal 
length grew out of it; and not a few volumes have been 
chiefly devoted to its discussion. The main point raised in 
these is its lawfulness, and, consequently, the claims of 
Robert’s descendants by Elizabeth Mure to the thrones they 
so long occupied. Buchanan, in his history, adopted a 
scandal which made matters look black enough. In this he 
might be influenced, however unconsciously, by his opposi¬ 
tion to the tyranny of the Stewarts; as he had himself 


MARRIAGE OF ROBERT II. 


Ill 


personally experienced the duplicity of Queen Mary, and 
entertained a supreme contempt for her pedantic son—who 
succeeded to the English throne—having often, as his 
pedagogue, brought the birch across the back of this 
“Great and Mighty Prince James.” No doubt the sins of 
the later Stewarts were many and great, as were their 
sufferings—five crowned heads among them meeting with 
violent deaths, two of them being executed. But we must 
not be influenced by this in misunderstanding or misrepre¬ 
senting the union from which the whole royal family 
sprung. The difficulty connected with the marriage was 
not because of any immorality, but because the two parties 
were distantly related (not even full cousins, but cousins 
many times removed); the Popes of that period having 
cunningly forbidden all such connections unless by their 
special sanction. The mist in the midst of which the con¬ 
flict w T as waged was only dispelled within the last ninety 
years, wheji a Dispensation from Pope Clement VI., dated 
1347, was discovered in the Vatican, granting the sanction 
thought to be so essential. Connected with this there was 
“ The foundation of a Chaplainship, erected in the Church 
of Glasgow, on account of the dispensation for contracting 
of matrimony between the said Robert Stewart and Eliza¬ 
beth Mure, whilst living, notwithstanding the impediment 
of consanguinity and affinity.” 

We can scarcely understand now the absorbing interest 
once felt in this question. Taking a short time in the 


112 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


British Museum among papers, pamphlets, and ponderous 
tomes referring to the subject of our sketch, it was amusing 
to see the zeal and extreme bitterness with which the 
point was discussed a century or two ago. But it was then 
looked on as having a close relation to peace or war in the 
nation, to loyalty or rebellion. And its undoubtedly close 
relation to Dundonald, together with the confusion which 
still prevails in regard to it, will be a sufficient excuse for 
our seeking so far to stir up the embers of the old con¬ 
troversy. 

Elizabeth was never queen, as she died in 1358, some 
thirteen years before her husband reached the throne. 
Robert’s second wife, Euphemia Ross, shared the Royal 
dignity with him, but also predeceased him; and was buried 
beside Elizabeth in Paisley Abbey, in 1387. 

Not long after this domestic sorrow, and immediately after 
the great national victory at Otterburn (celebrated in Chevy 
Chase), two or three years before his death—Robert will¬ 
ingly gave up business, as few Kings do, and retired to his 
Castle of Dundonald. Some historians only give him credit 
for laziness in this. Possibly his portly frame might induce 
something of that disease. But he evidently wished to end 
his days in peace. That blessing he had often earnestly 
sought to secure for his country, but his turbulent nobles 
uniformly frustrated his efforts. Now he will not be denied 
it, at least for himself. Hence these surroundings became 
intimately associated with his later years. How constantly, 


LAST DAYS OF ROBERT II. 


113 


during that time, the old King would be found wandering 

about these woods and this green knoll. Some, who saw 

him then, might remember him as he climbed the crags 

behind the Castle, and swept the heights and hollows 

beyond in pursuit of the deer, “ a comely youth, tall, and 

robust, modest, liberal, gay and courteous, and for the 

innate sweetness of his disposition, generally beloved by 

true-hearted Scotsmen.” Being also, in his old age, 

extremely affable and accessible to the humblest, many a 

chat the villagers would have with him. All, old and young, 

would be familiar with his figure. And we seem still to 

see him wending his weary steps up the Castle Hill, his 

silver locks waving in the breeze, his massive frame weighed 

down by the burden of more than three score years and 

ten, but withal “ a person of commanding stature and 

dignity.” An unfavourable Frenchman of the period 

describes him “ with red bleared eyes of the colour of 

sandalwood, which clearly showed that he was no valiant 

man, but one who would rather remain at home than march 

to the field.” This inference from the King’s physical 

appearance was a scandal. The colour of his eye had no 

relation to his courage, but was caused by an accident in 

connection with the sad circumstances of his birth. On 

this point his subjects were scarcely less unkind when they 

came very generally to designate him “ King Blear Ee.” 

The Frenchman seems to qualify his ungracious allusion by 

adding, “ He had, however, ten sons who loved arms.” He 

H 


116 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


There are several entries which show that this monument 
was originally brought by sea from England, sculptured by one 
Nicholas Haen, the King’s mason, and further decorated by 
Andrew the painter. Its first temporary resting-place was 
Holyrood, where it seems to have waited some time for the 
King’s demise. It was afterwards taken to Leith and once 
more put to sea—this time for Perth, where it had to wait 
in the Church of St. John’s, the King not yet requiring it. 
At length its purpose was accomplished. When the funeral 
procession reached Scone from Dundonald it was ready to 
mark the spot where the remains were deposited. From 
several other cash entries in the “ Polls,” it appears that 
masses for the King’s soul were said and paid for at Dum¬ 
barton, Arbroath, and Aberdeen. Payments, also, are 
mentioned which show that he had not been without his 
bodily comforts during his retirement in the West. There 
are constantly recurring accounts for wine, honey, lampreys, 
helmets, and coats of mail, besides all kinds of creature 
comforts for his Castles of Bute and Dundonald. 

Notwithstanding his peculiarities, most of the historians 
have a good word to say of Robert. One rather quaintly 
remarks, “ he is little known to history, because he was a 
good King and a good man.” It is also pleasing to find 
that, after nearly 500 years, when the name and fame of 
our hero of Dundonald had been almost lost amid the 
rubbish of the past, a Royal Monument is to be erected to 
his memory in the West. In the autumn of 1875, one of 


CEASES TO BE BOYAL PROPERTY. 


117 


Her Majesty’s sons visited Paisley Abbey, and shortly after¬ 
wards the following announcement appeared in the leading 
daily papers :—“ We understand that Dr. Lees has received 
a communication from His Royal Highness, Prince Leopold, 
stating that he had remarked when visiting the Abbey that 
there was no monument to Robert II., and the members of 
the family of Stuart, who are buried in the venerable build¬ 
ing. Her Majesty the Queen, on being informed of this, 
has graciously signified her willingness to erect a suitable 
memorial to her royal ancestors.” We only hope that the 
Prince was not led astray by his guide to report to the 
Queen, as this announcement bears, that the remains of 
Robert II. were deposited on the banks of the Cart, when 
all historical evidence points to the banks of the Tay as 
their resting place—though, we fear, from a volume since 
published in the good town, that our Paisley friends have 
been led to look on this honour as theirs. We do not 
grudge them a royal monument in the Abbey, as founded by 
and the burying-place of Robert’s ancestors, but we wish 
some one would draw the attention of Her Majesty to the 
claims of Dundonald as the home both of Robert himself 
and his ancestors, and a fit place for a memorial to the 
actual founder of Her Royal House ! 

Robert III., whose name was originally John, (but 
changed, when he came to the throne, on account of its 
unhappy associations in the history of the country), if he 
was not born at Dundonald, resided much here during his 


118 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


father’s lifetime, and after his father’s death. He is men¬ 
tioned in deeds of the period as “ The eldest son and heir— 
Lord of the Barony of Kyle.” He drew up charters at the 
Castle when his name remained simple John; and one con¬ 
taining this designation still exists in the Scots College of 
Paris, dated “ At Dundonewald the 17th of December this 
same first year of my father’s reign, and of Christ 1371.” 
Some would have it that he died here, but there is the 
strongest evidence that he broke his heart at Rothesay on 
hearing of his son’s captivity in England. 

There were many royal visits paid to the Castle by his 
descendants, and not till the reign of James V. does it 
seem to have passed from the hands of the kings. That 
monarch, however, gave a charter securing it to the Wallaces 
of Craigie, with whom it remained for upwards of a 
century. 

The property, by purchase from the Wallaces, in 1638, 
came into the hands of the Cochranes, a very ancient 
Scottish family, who had long held extensive possessions in 
Renfrewshire. The purchaser was Sir William Cochrane of 
Coudown, a gentleman of great ability and a favourite of 
Charles I. He served that unfortunate monarch at the 
Court of Denmark, and was created by him a peer of the 
House of Lords, in 1647, under the title of Lord Cochrane 
of Dundonald. He died in 1686, and was buried in 
Dundonald Churchyard; though, at his own request, no 
monument was erected to him on the spot. 


LORD COCHRANE, EARL OF DUNDONALD. 119 

There are strong temptations to speak of several members 
of this family whose connection with the Castle was more 
or less close; of Sir John, who took an active part, and 
suffered severely in the Covenanting struggles which pre¬ 
ceded and prepared the way for the overturn of the at 
length tyrannical Stewarts ; of Campbell B. Cochrane, an 
Earl of Dundonald, who was Lord Rector of the University 
of Glasgow in 1779; of Sir Alexander, a famous admiral 
and politician of his day ; or of his eccentric nephew, who 
resolved to go round the globe on foot, actually accomplish¬ 
ing so far, and publishing an account of this novel feat 
through France, Germany, Finland, Russia, and on through 
Siberia to Kamtschatka, (where he married a young native) 
—yielding only in his attempts on America by dying there 
in 1825. But we cannot thus pass over one of this line, 
who lived down to our own days—the late Lord Cochrane. 
Two volumes, published by him shortly before his death, 
entitled “ Autobiography of a Seaman, by Thomas, Tenth 
Earl of Dundonald,” record his daring on the deep, and 
read like a romance. When only eleven years of age he 
became a midshipman ; was early appointed to the com¬ 
mand of the “Speedy,” of 14 guns and 54 men; in ten 
months capturing by her 33 French vessels, amongst them 
one of 32 gnns and 319 men, fitted out avowedly for his 
capture. In command of other men-of-war he carried on 
the same career both among the Spaniards and the French; 
scattering, with a small detachment, a whole squadron in 


120 


DUNDONALD CASTLE. 


the Garonne, and destroying the French shipping, consisting 
of ten ships of the line besides frigates, in the Basque 
Roads—described as “one of the most daring and successful 
exploits in the naval history of Britain.” He entered 
parliament for Westminster; bitterly opposed the Govern¬ 
ment; was unjustly charged with speculation in the Funds, 
and sentenced to imprisonment, a heavy fine, and the pillory ; 
was expelled from the House and Navy, but immediately 
re-elected—his constituents paying the fine. Not allowed 
to serve in the British Navy, he accepted an invitation, 
first to assist the Spanish colonists at Chili against Spain, 
then at Peru, bringing signal triumph to both causes. By 
the Spaniards he was known as “El Diabolo.” Afterwards 
he assisted the Greeks against the Turks. On returning 
home he was received with enthusiasm. His innocence in 
the matter of the Funds being fully proved, he was restored 
to the Navy, succeeded in 1831 to the Earldom of Dun- 
donald and was appointed commander-in-chief of the North 
American and West Indian fleet. His eccentric and daring 
spirit showed itself in old age, in a proposal brought before 
Government, during the Crimean war, for the destruction 
of Cronstadt and Sebastopol. In spite of the hardships of 
his chequered life he was spared to see his 85th year. He 
died in 1860, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. He 
has been described as “ the first seaman of his class and the 
last of his school.” The Times said, “With a practical 
disposition, with prudence, and above all, with good 


LORD COCHRANE, EARL OF DUNDONALD. 


121 


fortune, Lord dundonald might have rivalled the fame of 
NELSON. * * * It is unfortunate that the heroism 

which ought to have been employed in the service of his 
country was wasted on the obscure struggles of Greeks and 
of mongrel American Spaniards.” The only part of his 
ancestral property which remained to him at his death was 
this green knoll and grey ruin, with a small field, embracing 
in all some six acres of land. 

There was a casual visit paid here which we must notice, 
because it has led to the scene being incorporated in one 
of our well-known English classics. The visitor was the 
famous Dr. Samuel Johnson, our great Lexicographer. 
Fully a hundred years ago (1773) his portly frame—not so 
graceful as the old king’s—might have been seen seeking a 
footing amidst these ruins. His satellite, Boswell, in the 
“Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides,” gives the following 
account of this visit:—“ Dr Johnson wished to survey it 
particularly. It stands on a beautiful rising ground which 
is seen at a great distance in several quarters, and from 
whence there is an extensive prospect of the rich district of 
Cunninghame, the Western Sea, the Isle of Arran, and part 
of the northern coast of Ireland.* It has long been unroofed 
and though of considerable size, we could not by any power 
of imagination figure it as having been a suitable habitation 
for majesty. Dr. Johnson, to irritate my old Scottish 
enthusiasm, was very jocular at the homely accommodation 
of ‘ King Bob,’ and roared and laughed till the ruins echoed.” 

* In referring to Ireland, Boswell errs, as it is seen from the Camp 
(on the hill top), not from the Castle. 




CHAPTER XIV. 


AUCHANS. 

We suppose you to take Auchans on your way back to 
Troon. It is about a mile from Dundonald by the highway; 
but we may reach it by a path, much more interesting and 
only half the distance, which runs along the wood from the 
foot of the Castle Hill. If driving, your conveyance 
could meet you at the Old House. You pass the Curling 
pond (dry in summer), and have a fine view of New Auchans. 
The path is deeply shaded with the woods and steep cliffs 
behind. Among these you may see, in a small way, 

Craga, knolls, ancl mounds confus’dly hurl’d, 

The fragments of an earlier world ; ” 

with wild flowers and ferns, both rare and lovely, scattered 
in rich abundance. The fine glimpses of the great plain 
beyond form a pleasing variety. We may here refer 
to an interesting association connected with the fields we 
are skirting. There, for several years, a youth with vigorous 
arm and lofty forehead held the plough, making these rocks 
ring with his whistle, who afterwards put a no less firm hand 
and cheerful spirit to the gospel plough; first in his native 
county, at Cumnock, and again in one of the most famous 
cities of the South. This was the Rev. Matthew Dickie, 
late of Bristol. Since his death, in 1871, these scenes have 


AUCIIANS. 


123 


been reproduced in an admirable memoir by his friend the 
Rev. Dr. W. M. Taylor of New York. 

By this route we approach Old Auclians from behind, 
and have the most picturesque view of the half-ruined pile. 
It is a fine specimen of the aristocratic homes of a former 
day. Its varied outlines, with tower, and turret, and bal¬ 
cony, make it a fit subject for the painter’s art and the 
antiquarian’s inspection. Internally a large portion is 
somewhat ruinous—the home of the crow and the swallow 
—prevented from falling to pieces, or from proving danger¬ 
ous to visitors, by being secured here and there, with mo¬ 
dern iron bands. A few apartments, however, including 
what are understood to have been the dining and drawing¬ 
rooms, are still inhabited in a humble way, providing homes 
for two separate families. In the principal gable, looking 
towards the wood, you can trace the outline of a large Gothic 
window, which may have been that of a private chapel. 
Some of the more valuable ornamental portions of the in¬ 
terior, such as the finely carved marble chimney-pieces, have 
been removed. 

In its situation Auchans is a peaceful seclusion, almost 
- under the shadow of the Old Bank, and in a fine bend of 
the ancient deer forest, but looking out on an extensive 
plain, with mountain sea and shore in the distance. The 
site seems to have been one of interest at a very early period, 
either as a home of wealth or a sacred burying place ; for 
an urn was dug up in the neighbourhood containing human 


124 


EARL AND PRESENT PROPRIETORS. 


bones, which, from its primitive construction and the soft¬ 
ness of the material—rapidly affected by exposure to the air 
—must have been very ancient. It is also supposed that in 
those early days there was a subterranean connection be¬ 
tween this and Dundonald Castle. On opening a drain to 
draw off the water from a little lake on the hill, when it 
came near the house the water suddenly disappeared, and 
continued for a good while to be sucked up by the earth; 
the only apparent explanation being that it had entered into 
this subterranean passage. 

The present house was early the residence of the Wallaces 
of Dundonald;—a branch of the Riccarton family, and thus 
connected with the great Scottish hero. Lord Boyd had a 
charter of Auchans from John Wallace in 1599. The build¬ 
ing and adjacent lands came into the possession of the 
Cochranes in 1640; and the erection may have owed some¬ 
thing to them, as one of the side angles bears the date of 

1644, and another that of 1667. The initials w D c occur- 

e s 

ring also in two separate portions, which seem to be those 
of Sir William Cochrane, point to the same conclusion. The 
House was ultimately, along with the surrounding property, 
incorporated by purchase with the Eglinton Estates, of 
which it now forms part. 

The latest inhabitant of distinction—one who long lived 
and at length died within these walls—was the celebrated 
Susannah, Countess of Eglinton. She was the greatest 
beauty of her day; and her charms ravished the Scottish 


AUCIIANS. 


125 


and even the English capital. These were celebrated by 
more than one poet—mainly by Allan Ramsay, who in¬ 
scribed to her his “Gentle Shepherd.” In his Dedication 
the poet declares, that, “But for offending her he might 
give the fullest liberty to his muse in delineating the finest 
of women:” yet he risks the offence in adding, “Your 
ladyship justly claims our admiration and profoundest re¬ 
spect, for whilst you are possessed of every outward charm 
in the most perfect degree, the never-fading beauties of 
wisdom and piety, which adorn your Ladyship's mind, com¬ 
mand devotion.” A recent editor of Ramsay’s works, who 
had not the same motive to flatter, describes her as “ A 
woman of magnificent stature [six feet], unrivalled beauty 
and grace of person, and a cultivated and benevolent mind. 
She extended active patronage to Ramsay, Boyce, and other 
poets at a time when probably no other peeress of the 
country, besides the Duchess of Queensberry, ever cast a 
thought on the interests of literary men.” Hamilton of 
Bangour pours forth a noble and now well-known lay in her 
praise: gallantry, and the novelty of such patronage, may 
well excuse the colouring. We give a specimen:— 

‘ ‘ In virtues rich, in goodness unconfined, 

Thou shin’st a fair example of thy kind ; 

Sincere and equal to thy neighbour’s fame, 

How swift to praise, how obstinate to blame ! 

Bold in thy presence bashfulness appears, 

And backward merit loses all its fears, 


126 


SUSANNAH, COUNTESS OF EGLINTON. 


Supremely blest by Heaven, Heaven’s richest grace 
Contest is tliine—an early blooming race, 

* * * Sit sit * 

Thrice happy who succeed their mother’s praise, 

The lovely Eglintouns of other days.” 

She was second daughter of Sir Archibald Kennedy of 
Culzean. A romantic little event gets credit for first open¬ 
ing up the way to the peerage. As she was in the garden of 
Culzean one day, it is said that a hawk, with the name and 
arms of Eglinton attached to it, alighted on her shoulder. 
This was a happy omen. It was some time, however, before 
it was verified, and that rather after a business than a poetic 
fashion. It came about thus: Susannah seemed prepared 
to yield to one of her numerous admirers—Sir John Clerk 
of Penicuik*—when the father took an opportunity of con¬ 
sulting his friend the Earl of Eglinton on the subject. The 
Earl, whose first wife was a grand-daugliter of Lord Coch¬ 
rane of Dundonald, was living with his second wife and a 


* Chambers has preserved a fine little sonnet, written by Sir John 
to Susannah, the paper on which it was composed being originally 
concealed in a flute presented to the lady, and which only revealed 
itself for the first time when she began to blow. It begins thus— 

“ Harmonious pipe, I languish for thy bliss, 

When pressed to Silvia’s lips with gentle kiss ! 

And when her tender fingers round thee move 

In soft embrace, I listen and approve 

Those melting notes which sooth my soul in love.” 



AUCHANS. 


127 


circle of beautiful daughters—but without a male heir. 
This want, in spite of the beauty by which he was sur¬ 
rounded, was keenly felt; and the thought seems to have 
occured to him that the doom of beins: the last of the 
Eglintons in the male line, might yet be averted. The idea 
was briefly if not bluntly disclosed to his friend. “ Bide a 
wee, Sir Archy, my wife’s very sickly.” It was enough. 
The connection with the humble knight was broken off, and 
in becoming circumstances, Susannah became the Earl’s 
third wife. She bore him a numerous family—seven charm¬ 
ing daughters coming in succession. But each was only a new 
disappointment, till he seemed so fretted as to threaten a 
divorce. Ultimately, however, Susannah had three sons, 
two of whom in turn heired their father’s fortune; an eighth 
daughter making the family list complete on her side. It is 
said to have been a charming sight when the Countess was 
spending the Winter in Edinburgh, to witness, on occasions, 
seven or eight sedan chairs standing at her residence, now 
the Old Stamp Office Close, High Street, to reeeive the 
mother and her lovely daughters. Tho old earl had ultim¬ 
ately in all seventeen of a family. 

It was after the death of her husband, whom she survived 
for fifty-one years, that the Countess resided permanently 
at Auchans. Here she was engaged in training her family. 
An interesting description of the manner in which she per¬ 
formed this task is given in a handsome volume of “ Memo¬ 
rials of the Montgomeries, Earls of Eglinton,” published for 


128 


JOHNSON AND BOSWELL AT AUCHANS. 


private circulation. We are told that “ During her residence 
at Auchans she lived in great state, and always maintained 
a dignified reserve with her own family. Her children were 
taught to address her as ‘ your ladyship/ and without any 
want of affection, she observed the same politeness with 
regard to them. Though Alexander, her eldest son, was a 
mere boy when he succeeded to the titles and estates, she 
henceforth addressed him as 1 Lord Eglinton/ and com¬ 
manded all the family and domestics to do the same.” This 
Alexander was afterwards, in the prime of life, shot in a 
scuffle with an Exciseman near Ardrossan. He was brought 
home to her mortally wounded, and her system never fully 
recovered the shock then received. 

At Auchans the Countess was visited by Dr. Samuel 
Johnson and Boswell. We cannot withhold a specimen of 
Boswell’s gossip about this visit, taken from “ The Journal 
of a Tour to the Hebrides.” “ Lady Eglintoun,” he says, 
“though she was now (1773) in her 85th year, and had 
lived in the retirement of the country for almost half-a- 
century, was still a very agreeable woman. She was of 
the noble house of Kennedy, and had all the elevation 
which the consciousness of such birth inspires. Her figure, 
was majestic, her manners ' high-bred, her reading exten¬ 
sive, and her conversation elegant. She had been the 
admiration of the gay circles of life, and the patron of the 
poets. Dr. Johnson was delighted with his reception here. 
Her principles in Church and State were congenial with 


AUCHANS. 


129 


his. She knew all his merits, and had heard much of him 
from her son, Earl Alexander, who loved to cultivate the 
acquaintance of men of talents in every department. . . 

In the course of our conversation to-day it came out that 
Lady Eglintoune was married a year before Dr. Johnson 
was born; upon which she said that she ought to have 
been his mother and that she now adopted him; and when 
we were going away she embraced him, saying, ‘ My dear 
son, farewell!’ ” 

/ % 

So much for Johnson’s visit. We may add that this more 

than patroness, this mother of men of letters, did not bid 
farewell to Auchans for nearly seven years afterwards. She 
died in 1780 in her 91st year. Up to the last she retained 
her charms, and “ had little reason to accuse time of depre¬ 
dations on her beauty.” How the flower seemed to bloom 
with such loveliness so long was a great puzzle, as well as 
a cause of envy to her rivals and admirers. Chambers, in 
his “ Traditions of Edinburgh,” humorously says, “ As her 
secret may be of some service to modern beauties, I shall, in 
kindness to her sex, divulge it; she never used paint, but 
washed her face periodically with Sow’s Milk.” We have 
seen a portrait taken in her 81st year, engraved in the 
“ Memorials” above referred to, in which her attractions may 
still be discovered. She had rather a peculiar recreation in 
her later years. Chambers says, “ She had a vast number 
of rats in her pay at Auchans, and they succeeded in her 
affections to the poets and artists with whom she had been 


130 


BEECH WOOD AND PARKTHORN. 


acquainted in early life. It does not reflect much credit on 
the latter, that her ladyship used to complain of never 
having met with true gratitude except from four-footed 
animals. She had a panel in the oak wainscot of her 
dining-room, which she tapped upon at meal-times, when 
ten or twelve jolly rats came tripping forth and joined her 
at table. At the word of command, or a signal from her 
ladyship, they retired obediently to their obscurity.” 

But we have said enough about the grey walls and 
memories of Old Auchans and must go on to Troon. You 
may take a delightful path behind the House through the 
Beech Wood, joining the highway at the farm of Parktliorn, 
about half-a-mile distant. Or you may join it immediately 
in front of the House. The walk or drive by the highway, 
for fully a mile, is finely varied, through wood and brake, 
with successive heights and hollows, now shut out from the 
world and then revealing a wide and varied prospect beyond. 
Beaching the highest point, what a charming glimpse of sea 
and shore, with Arran and its northern attendants in the 
blue distance, bursts upon you through that natural arch¬ 
way of trees—a lovely vignette ! Even Troon, stretching 
its arm so far into the sea to embrace and protect the ship¬ 
ping, gives both life and beauty to the scene. Biit we are 
close upon Hillhouse, where we must pause for a little, as 
we have something special to say about it. 


CHAPTER XV. 


HILLHOUSE AND BARASSIE. 

Hillhouse, on a spur of the Dundonald range, has a 
splendid situation, with a wide prospect of all the lower 
basin of the Clyde. It is most conspicuous from Troon, 
and Troon from it. The proprietor has not himself occupied 
it for a considerable time ; and it is leased chiefly for sum¬ 
mer quarters. In this capacity it is a favourite residence 

of successful merchants from the Western Metropolis. Un- 
» 

like most of our coast quarters, however, it is no mere 
modern upstart. It is a house with a history. The present 
structure may not be more than seventy or eighty years old, 
but it is the successor of a very ancient one. With the sur¬ 
rounding property, it is in the hands of the M‘Kerrils, who 
go back to Kerlie, the friend of Wallace, in tracing their 
origin, and to a hero of Otterburn in accounting for their 
arms. This hero was Sir John M‘Kerril, who captured 
Rouel de Percie, brother of the famous Hotspur, and re¬ 
ceived high honours for his bravery. The M‘Kerrils indeed 
claim to have possessed this property even before that 
period, and to have acquired it direct from Robert the 
Bruce. There is good reason to believe, however, that it 
was then part of the lands of the High Stewards, and that 


132 THE FLYTING OF DUNBAR. 

another proprietor, before the family who now possess it, 
received it from James IV. From “ Wood’s Peerage,” we 
learn that “John, second Lord Cathcart, in 1505, had a 
charter of Colynane and Hillhouse and Holmys in Ayrshire, 
in the hands of the king, by reason of forfeiture for the 
alienation of the greater part of the same by Alan, Lord 
Cathcart, his grandfather.” The Poet Dunbar, described 
by Sir Walter Scott as “ unrivalled by any that Scotland 
ever produced,” and who was a retainer of the Court of 
James IV., has a reference to Hillhouse in one of his 
rougher pieces, entitled, “ The Flyting of Dunbar and 
Kennedy.” We can only venture a portion of the stanza in 
which the reference occurs, and leave our readers to make 
out for themselves the meaning of the terrible epithets 
employed :— 

“ Cankerit Cayne, tryit trowane, tutevillous, 

Marmadin, mymmerkin, monstour of all men, 

I sal gar bake the’ to the Laird of Hilhouss, 

To swelly th’ instead of ane pullit hen.” * 


* Mr. Laing, of the Signet Library—the editor of Dunbar’s Poems, 
who has had the honour of being the first to bring these long forgotten 
writings fully and prominently before the public—in a note, mentions 
a Hillhouse in Linlithgowshire as possibly that which the poet had 
in view. We have the authority of Mr. Laing, however, for saying 
that he is now of opinion that it is this Ayrshire Hillhouse that is 
referred to. And, considering its comparative nearness to Culzean, 
the home of Kennedy, this is the most natural explanation. 



M‘KERRIL AND WELSH. 


133 


There was an excellent man, William M‘Kerril, laird of 
this estate about 300 years ago (he was married in 1570) a 
faithful adherent and warm friend of John Welsh, son-in-law 
of John Knox. He is frequently mentioned in a recent 
work, “ Young’s Life of Welsh.” He was the first to pro¬ 
pose the building of a new church, where the Reformer might 
find extended scope for his most successful labours. Here 
is the extract from the Ayr Town Council Records, dated 
15th March, 1603. “An overture [was] proposed by 
William M‘Kerril, for bigging a new Kirk within this 
burgh, in such a competent place as can be agreed upon; 
and the Town Council thinks the same good to be done, if 
the means can be had for the bigging thereof.” To help to 
raise the means, and the stone and lime too, MTverril, with 
four others, was appointed by the Council. Their duties are 
thus described : “ To be masters and overseers of the work 
of the bigging of the new Kirk, and receivers and disbursers 
of the silver disbursed thereupon.” Many of the worthy 
merchants and burgesses of the good town heartily re¬ 
sponded to the call for “ sil’er.” We find records of that 
period referring to their free-will offerings in the quaint 
language of the times, as thus :—“ to the biging of the new 
kirk to be bigit within the brucht, fiftie merks ;” or another, 
“ to the biging of the new Kirk, or to the puir folk, quhilk 
of thame my pastouris and ministeris of this brucht pleiss 
to distribut the samyin, XL. merks.” Unfortunately, how¬ 
ever, dark times came, and it was fully half-a-century before 


134 


HILLHOUSE AND BARASSIE. 


the “ bigging ” arose. Bat it still stands, having served its 
purpose for more than 200 years, and contains a window of 
stained glass in memory of John Welsh, for whom it was 
originally designed. Might it not also have one, or may it 
not yet have one, in memory of William M‘Kerril of Hill- 
house, by whom it originated ? Two years after the new 
church was proposed the great preacher became one of a 
long line of persecuted sufferers under the tyranny of the 
later Stewarts, (who had just ascended the English throne), 
and was dragged as a prisoner to Edinburgh. Hillhouse 
was one of three who mounted horse and accompanied their 
“ weel belovit pastor ” to the capital. While lingering in 
Edinburgh, he was formally appointed by the Town Council 
of Ayr, along with some others, “ to intercede for the relief 
and liberty of Mr. John Welsh, minister and pastor of this 
burgh, at the Secret Council’s hands, who is now warded 
in Blackness.” Though all these efforts failed, it is well 
that William M‘Kerril of Hillhouse should be held in 
honourable remembrance for his connection with them. 
His son, also, had a similar spirit, for we find his name 
attached to the Solemn League and Covenant, previously 
noticed as still preserved at Dundonald. He is the only one 
signing that document whose possessions still remain in the 
family. Another of the heirs of Hillhouse, John M‘Kerril, 
married a daughter of Wallace, Bishop of the Isles, and the 
couple engraved their initials lovingly, where other lovers 
are sometimes found tapping—“at the garden gate.” And 


SIR CHARLES LYELL. 


135 


there they stand to this day, having been carefully preserved 
when the old house was taken down.—16 JMK/EW 71. 
Their son and heir, John, was married to a grandchild of 
the only daughter of the last of the Mures of Rowallan— 
the same family out of which Robert II. obtained his bride, 
the mother of the Stewarts. A Chapel is said to have 
existed near the garden, traceable in some mounds and 
foundation stones on a height now tufted with trees, which 
must have given it a commanding appearance. An ancient 
stone, with a cavity of some seven inches, built in the old 
garden wall, is pointed out as the Baptismal Font. 

But there was a still more ancient relic found somewhere 
between Hillliouse and the Sea. It is referred to by Sir 
Charles Lyell in his work on “ The Evidences for the 
Antiquity of Man.” Speaking of the latest elevation of the 
land, of which we have traces along the entire basin of the 
Clyde, he says : “But the twenty-five feet rise is only the 
latest stage of a long antecedent process of elevation, for 
examples of recent marine shells have been observed forty 
feet and upwards above the sea in Ayrshire. At one of 
these localities Mr. Smith of Jordanhill informs me that a 
rude ornament, made of cannel coal, has been found on the 
coast in the Parish of Dundonald, lying fifty feet above the 
sea level, on the surface of the boulder clay or till, and 
covered with gravel containing marine shells. If we suppose 
the upward movement to have been uniform in central 
Scotland before and after the Roman era, and assume that 


136 


HILLHOUSE AND BARASSIE. 


as twenty-five feet indicate seventeen centuries, so fifty feet 
imply a lapse of twice that number, or of 3400 years, we 
should then carry hack the date of the ornament in 
question to fifteen centuries before our era, or to the 
days of Pharaoh and the period usually assigned to the 
Exodus of the Israelites from Egypt.” The famous geologist 
suggests that such estimates must be considered in the 
present state of Science as tentative and conjectural. Would 
it not have been well if a similar caution had been displayed 
by himself, and especially by some of his followers, in far 
more doubtful and extravagant calculations % 

From Hillhouse you may return to Troon either by 
Loans or by the shore. The latter route has its inconven¬ 
iences in driving, but as it is shorter, and we wish you to 
look at Barassie on your way, we choose it. Crossing the 
Irvine Eoad, with the farm of Laigh Hillhouse on the one 
side of it, and that of Barassie on the other; and crossing 
the railway at the junction, you are at Barassie Bank. 
We are inclined to call it a suburb of Troon, though our 
Kilmarnock cousins used to claim it entirely to themselves. 
And certainly it originated with them. They built nearly 
the whole, as sea bathing quarters, and still retain the 
greater part of it as their property. It is very convenient 
for visitors from Kilmarnock, with a station on the direct 
line just at their door, expressly provided for themselves. 
But they have strong competition in visitors from Glasgow ; 


BEAUTIES OF BARASSIE. 


137 


as special privileges by express have long been provided for 
them. 

How bare Barassie looks ! Yet it is not without its 
beauty, though, like our own, that consists rather in what 
is seen from it, than what is seen of it. The spectator there, 
besides the unbroken outline of Arran, and the hills to the 
north, has the advantage of including Troon in his landscape, 
with a full disclosure of our forest of masts to enliven his 
view. Not a single sail, entering or leaving the harbour, 
and scarcely one in it, can escape him. Within Barassie, 
too, there are beauties. Where can you see a finer or more 
extensive vinery than that which, from its southern extre¬ 
mity, sparkles so brilliantly in the sun 'l It is another Crystal 
Palace, with nothing superior in the county. And in 
connection with nearly all the other cottages, the inmates 
may sit under their own vine, if not under their own fig 
tree. If you have some claim or excuse for admission within 
these lofty walls—which unfortunately conceal, as they 
fortunately shelter the well-kept gardens—you will find 
many a little paradise. There is also abundant scope for 
the old to lounge and the young to play, in the bent 
behind, and the grassy bank and broad beach in front of the 
cottages ; with Bowling Green and Golfing ground for the 
bigger boys. No wonder that, to those who know it best, 
Barassie is a favourite summer retreat. 

We are informed by a kind correspondent, that, within 
the last ninety years, the bent and “ all the lands of Baras- 


138 


HILLHOUSE AND BARASSIE. 


sie were unenclosed, or rather not divided into fields, and 
tenanted by cattle which roamed at will amongst broom 
bushes so high as to hide them from view; and the cattle 
so wild, that when any one was wanted for M^Kerrel’s table 
it was captured by men with guns on horseback. The late 
Mr. Hay Boyd of Townend told [our correspondent] that 
when a boy he stood on the top of a hay-stack at Collenan 
and watched the horsemen pursuing the wild cattle. The 
broom, he said, was in some parts so high as nearly to hide 
the riders from view.” A miniature buffalo hunt on the 
prairies ! 

Though the Cottages of Barassie Bank are modern struc¬ 
tures, the district from the foot of the hill has borne the 
name from time immemorial. It is probably from the Gaelic 
Barr, a hill, and as, out of. The spelling in the Government 
Maps retain the double r in harmony with this, which we 
followed in our previous edition, though constrained now to 
take the example of the Railway Company, and save an r. 

You can return from Barassie to Troon along the beach, 
or by the side of the old railway. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


THE GLEN. 

We have completed the circuit of what is specially interest¬ 
ing between Troon and Dundonald. But there is a walk 
we must not neglect, which takes us by the diameter of this 
circle. We refer to the Glen path. It is the shortest 
route—the pass for pedestrians from Kilmarnock and the 
“East,” and has been so from time immemorial. It was the 
direct line of march from the fertile plains of North Kyle 
to the sea, in the days of our savage forefathers, who have 
unmistakeably left their footprints behind them. We may 
here, however, warn you not to be deceived by the romantic 
title of Glen. You will neither find wild mountain peaks, 
nor deep ravines, nor brawling brooks, but a quiet sylvan 
retreat. Still, apart from its antiquities, it is not without 
its interest. Its soft green sward, and woods and slopes on 
either side, with its varied windings and constant alterna¬ 
tions of sunshine and shade will be welcomed by every 
lover of simple beauty. 

It is better to take it on your return visit either from 
Dundonald Hill or Village. Suppose you take it after 
ascending the Hill, you proceed exactly half-a-mile from the 
highest point on the road. At the nearest corner of the 


140 


ST. MARY’S IN THE GLEN. 


wood on the left, you see an opening like a little private 
avenue, with the respectful intimation, “ Please shut the 
Gate;” from which you properly conclude that you are at 
liberty to open it. Thus you enter the Glen in the usual 
way. Almost immediately you pass a clearance on the 
right, surrounded by woods. In winter this is a lovely 
little lake, a choice skating and curling pond. 

A walk of three or four hundred yards brings you oppo¬ 
site the farm of Hallyards, which is seen perched on a 
height close by, on your left. In its kitchen garden is the 
site of an ancient structure called St. Mary’s Chapel. Only 
a small portion, however, can now be seen, in the form of a 
stone, built in the gable of the farm house, but which seems 
to have been part of the tracery of a door or window of the 
old Chapel. Grave doubts were expressed by some of the 
more careful and candid readers of our first issue as to the 
existence of this chapel in so unlikely a place and with such 
insignificant remains to point out its site. Since that issue, 
F. J. Turner, Esq., whose antiquarian tastes have been useful 
to us in other points, has kindly endeavoured to probe this 
matter to the bottom. He has had the ground opened on 
the supposed site, where unique foundations have been laid 
bare. These consist of walls about four feet and a half thick, 
including a space of some 24 feet by 12. Two circular 
holes, about two feet each in diameter and in depth, were 
found in the heart of these walls, partially filled with dark 
and red ashes. Were these relics of the Saints, or founda- 


CHAPEL AND VITRIFIED FORT. 


141 


tion consecrations 1 The flooring had a thin layer of charcoal, 
with another apparently of clay above it, both carefully 
spread over a deposit of compact stones. There were also 
found broken pieces of light brown or yellowish pottery, 
apparently portions of vases, together with a handle of what 
seemed a silver spoon, and a once shining but now sadly 
corroded coin or button! Fragments of thick slating, re¬ 
sembling what is seen on old Abbeys, were discovered beneath 
the cavities in the foundation and scattered outside the wall. 
All this is surely sufficient for the antiquarian as proof of an¬ 
tiquity ; though, we must acknowledge it w r as a sad disappoint¬ 
ment to the excavators, who, after four days’ toil, reported 
that they had not found yon. What ? The pot of gold! 

Some suppose this was the St. Mary’s in which Robert II. 
w r as married, but Lad}' - Kirk has superior claims to the 
honour. A few paces further on you come to St. Mary’s 
w r ell: where priests must often have quenched their thirst, 
and, perhaps, been constrained to weaken their “sack.” 
But neither of these, nor the polluting influence of time, 
has affected its jmrity 

In the Glen we have at hand a relic of antiquity more 
interesting and curious still. On the rising ground to your 
right, immediately opposite Hallyards, are the ruins of an 
ancient Vitrified Fort. The steep path, through a small 
opening in the woods, opposite the well, leads to it. 
Reaching the top of this path, and following it downwards, 
you will soon find yourself in a space confused with rugged 


142 


THE GLEN. 


stones, partly overgrown with grass, weeds, and wild 
flowers, and surrounded by brambles and thorns. The spot 
was well chosen by our savage ancestors for a fort, being 
the end of a ridge steep on all sides but one, and quite 
precipitous towards that other pass which runs parallel to 
the one you have been following. The fort might well 
guard both passes from the feebly armed foes of those days, 
but itself could shelter comparatively few friends. There 
w~as here a circular wall of the strongest possible construc¬ 
tion, the remains of which, though level with the ground, 
are sufficiently conspicuous. The manner in which these 
stones were joined is the main feature of interest and 
perplexity. Turn up some of them, and examine them care¬ 
fully. You will see pieces of trap and sandstone 
welded together in a way which could be accomplished by 
no known cement. And yet it is evidently a work of art. 
The only explanation seems to be that it was the result of 
fusion. The heat required for this must have been some¬ 
thing like that of our modern furnaces. In fact, the stones 
resemble very closely the “ slag” from a furnace. But how 
that heat was procured is still a puzzle, as history had not 
dawned when these forts raised their defiant little heads. 
The glassy appearance which some of the stones assume has 
given rise to the name Vitrified Fort. An iron ring, 
resembling an ear ring, but about four inches broad, was 
found here some years ago, imbedded in the vitrified stone, 
and is now preserved in the Ayr Museum. It was most 


OPENING PROSPECT. 


143 


probably an ancient coin. Was it put there as we still 
deposit coins in the foundation of our buildings h Were it 
not to alarm the timid antiquarian, we plight relate how, 
in rummaging among these stones, along with a friend, for 
the best vitrified specimens, we were rather startled by 
the wriggling escape of an adder—the only one we ever met 
with in these surroundings. This hint may suffice for the 
safety of the remains. 

Instead of returning at once to the Glen Path, proceed 
westward to the top of the ridge, which is known as Kemp 
Law or Camp Hill. Here you will obtain a charming 
glimpse of the distant scene. We can remember well the 
impression produced when we first wandered through these 
woods and took this way back. Unconscious of our where¬ 
abouts, in a musing mood we were striving to pierce the gloom 
of the distant past, when suddenly the wide blue waters, 
with the glorious prospect beyond, burst upon us. We 
were like one that dreamed, 

“ Or like stout Cortes, when, with eagle eyes, 

He stared at the Pacific, and all his men 
Looked at each other with a wild surmise 
Silent upon a peak of Darien .’ 1 

Yet, instead of the lone Pacific, it was clear that we were on 
a well keeled basin of the Atlantic. A whole fleet, it might 
be nearly a hundred sail, as is frequently the case, had been 
escaping from Troon- harbour; and there they were, with 
outspread wings, like a flock of pigeons, seeking the distant 


144 


THE GLEN FOOT. 


horizon. What a beautiful illustration of the prophet’s 
words! “Who are these that fly as a cloud and as the doves 
to their windows 1 Surely the isles shall wait for me and 
the ships of Tarshish first, to bring their sons from far, their 
silver and their gold with them, unto the name of the Lord 
thy God.” 

Returning to the Glen path you cross the stile, which 
divides the property of the Earl of Eglinton, through which 
you have been passing, from that of the Duke of Portland. 
A word more, however, about this path before you leave it. 
You must have observed that it was no mere wandering 
way through the woods, but had signs of being made. 
Stones, sometimes of considerable size, were evidently 
“ cast up ” to clear it. By similar signs you might trace a 
continuation on the other side of the loch, up the heights, 
towards the Castle. It was therefore, no doubt the ancient 
route from the Castle to the sea. The steeds of the High 
Stewards must often have pranced along it. And the royal 
retinue of Robert II. would frequently be seen—after re¬ 
ceiving the salute from a special gathering of the priests of 
St. Mary’s, and cheers from the old Fort perhaps manned 
for the occasion—emerging from these woods with plume 
and banner, trumpet, and drum, making for Loans and its 
Lodge, or for a hunt through the wilds of Barassie, or a 
grand canter along the sands. The Glen path was, in fact, 
a Rotten Row —(la route or routine du roij —the King’s way. 
Why this was not chosen as the route for the modern 


ROTTEN ROW. 


145 


highway we connot tell; except that heights in these days of 
road-making were thought to be essential for drainage, and 
such low ways as the Glen were eschewed. It certainly 
would have been the most direct and the most lovely. But 
it would not have commanded the same prospect as the 
others, and. by its traffic, might have injured the romantic 
memories which its present loneliness assists. 

With no trace of its former dignity, you must follow a 
mere tract through the fields, with Aught wood close on 
your left. You thus pass Collenan quarry; now unused as 
such, its water in emergencies supplying our gravitation de- 
ficiences. The refuse of the quarry has greatly diminished 
the dignity of the approach to the Glen; and if you enter it 
from this point you may require some little guidance. The 
farm of Collenan is just at hand, snugly sheltered in the 
wooded neuk. There an old mansion house stood for some 
two centuries, occupied by the Cunninghams, a well-known 
and ancient family. The property, sometimes, called Robert- 
land, seems to have been obtained by them from the Cath- 
carts, about 1548. One of the first lairds of Collenan we 
hear of, was married to a daughter of John Mure of Rowallan, 
from whence so many brides came to this neighbourhood. 
No doubt the connection was envied and courted, as that of 
the original great proprietor of the district, and founder of 
the royal family. Another of the Cunninghams of Collenan 
was a man of public note in his day, having been a Com¬ 
missioner of Supply for the county, and in 1698-1700, a 


146 


ROTTEN ROW. 


representative of the burgh of Ayr. It is little more than 
a hundred years since his estate was sold, and ultimately 
came into the hands of the Duke of Portland. 

If you desire to walk to Troon, after crossing the high¬ 
way here, you can go direct through the fields; as ancient 
privilege claims a way which may be a continuance of the 
“Rotten Row.” Thus you will reach Troon near the Pans. 
And if you have followed us throughout, you have, to a 
large extent, exhausted the leading features of u Troon and 
Dundonald with their surroundings.” We can only hope 
that your patience has not been more thoroughly exhausted 
than the district; and that you may have had anything of 
the pleasure in reading, that we have had in preparing this 
sketch, as the recreation of a leisure hour. 


KILMARNOCK : PRINTED BY JAMES M‘lvTE. 














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